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lordkahless214
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« on: March 15, 2014, 12:45:40 am » |
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ok so I spent an hour or so fine tuning my Millipede's monitor to a gorgeous picture, but then while letting it burn in for a few hours, it suddenly lost sync and when I got it stable again I got this droop in the image, cold boot or warmed up makes no difference, the image droops on the left side (which would be the tube's top) you can see what it looks like in this picture http://www.coinopspace.com/photo/img-20140314-202636 I am fairly certain I need to do a cap kit, but I wanted opinions from you guys if there is anything else I should look at on the chassis that can cause this issue, I really don't want to have to take the chassis out more than once. It is the original Matsushita monitor, I would normally replace the whole monitor due to the poor design, but in this case the tube checks out good and It had a great picture up till now. Thanks for any suggestions you have on this. |
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« Last Edit: April 02, 2014, 05:44:51 pm by lordkahless214 »
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STEVESPEEZE
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« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2014, 07:18:19 am » |
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one of mine just did that yesterday.
actually it did three whammies on me, it looked too green, sagged like your pic and needed a new neck board.
I did a cap kit , changed the neck board and one of the adjusters needed to be changed.
it was one of those 4600 style wg.
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UnwoundS3GA
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« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2014, 09:15:34 am » |
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Yes, I would recommend you just doing a cap kit. I guarantee you it will fix all of your problems.  |
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lordkahless214
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« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2014, 05:12:15 pm » |
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OK thanks guys, kind of figured that was what i needed to do to resolve the issue. I had just never seen this type of failure in a monitor before now, I guess I had been lucky  |
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John's Arcade
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« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2014, 05:57:28 pm » |
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Always start with a cap kit so you can at least rule it out. And, it's preventative maintenance.
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lordkahless214
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« Reply #5 on: April 02, 2014, 04:13:32 pm » |
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Ok so I capped this monitor, and while I was at it, re-flowed the solder to the potentiometers, the IC, and the header pins. and It has improved the situation, but it's not gone. It now only has the slight droop on 1/2 inch of the screen but only when it warms up and it stays on that area, so it's playable, I'm going to try to adjust the B+ and see if that helps anything.
any Ideas as to what else to try? I still haven't replaced Big Blue yet or rebuilt the ARII, and those are next in line.
There is a service bulletin that mentions upping the voltage of one of the caps to 250V if you have sync problems So maybe I should try that?
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VertexGuy
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« Reply #6 on: April 02, 2014, 05:16:03 pm » |
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Yes, I would recommend you just doing a cap kit. I guarantee you it will fix all of your problems. I guess it didn't  |
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lordkahless214
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« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2014, 05:44:22 pm » |
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Well turns out I was pretty dumb! and when adjusting the monitor I did it by myself, and so when adjusting the old metal horizontal hold pot I couldn't find the proper setting. After I brought in a helper I just played with that potentiometer and voila distortion gone, so problem solved......and I'm a bonehead  see the results http://www.coinopspace.com/photo/img-19800105-160201 |
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VertexGuy
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« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2014, 07:07:45 pm » |
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hey man its all trial and error .
good you got it fixed.
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John's Arcade
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« Reply #9 on: April 02, 2014, 09:01:55 pm » |
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Well turns out I was pretty dumb! and when adjusting the monitor I did it by myself, and so when adjusting the old metal horizontal hold pot I couldn't find the proper setting. After I brought in a helper I just played with that potentiometer and voila distortion gone, so problem solved......and I'm a bonehead see the results http://www.coinopspace.com/photo/img-19800105-160201Good work! Get a mirror next time. |
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lordkahless214
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« Reply #10 on: April 03, 2014, 01:06:54 am » |
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Well turns out I was pretty dumb! and when adjusting the monitor I did it by myself, and so when adjusting the old metal horizontal hold pot I couldn't find the proper setting. After I brought in a helper I just played with that potentiometer and voila distortion gone, so problem solved......and I'm a bonehead see the results http://www.coinopspace.com/photo/img-19800105-160201Good work! Get a mirror next time. Dude, that's why I'm a bonehead LOL had one and used it, but I still couldn't get it right. |
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John's Arcade
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« Reply #11 on: April 03, 2014, 09:57:47 am » |
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Well turns out I was pretty dumb! and when adjusting the monitor I did it by myself, and so when adjusting the old metal horizontal hold pot I couldn't find the proper setting. After I brought in a helper I just played with that potentiometer and voila distortion gone, so problem solved......and I'm a bonehead see the results http://www.coinopspace.com/photo/img-19800105-160201Good work! Get a mirror next time. Dude, that's why I'm a bonehead LOL had one and used it, but I still couldn't get it right. Don't feel bad! Adjusting monitors is a bit of an art form. You need to have an eye for it. I can't tell you how many games I got with really bad looking monitors. A lot of times they just needed about ten minutes of adjusting to make it perfect. Sometimes it's a lot of knob turning, other times you have to adjust the convergence, you'd be surprised how a bad monitor can turn good with just some minor adjustments. My Burgertime monitor looked HORRIBLE. The picture was blurry. I spent like 10 minutes converging it and it looked brand new when I was done. It's worth taking the time to adjust it right, sometimes that's all it needs! |
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lordkahless214
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« Reply #13 on: July 06, 2014, 03:30:29 am » |
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I can tell you this monitor drove me absolutely nuts! it's got so many fiddly adjustments and points of possible failure that I seriously considered replacing it. I'm glad I didn't, because even though I had to spend many hours adjusting everything (including the yoke), it has a gorgeous picture.
First thing to keep in mind is that the tubes on these are very hard to get replacements for, and are typically only found in ancient Panasonic TV's.
It has a uncommon neck socket so if you need a new tube, you may wish to just replace it all if you find your tube is bad.
Second, is the flyback replacements for these have some issues and have sometimes been known to cause damage to the chassis, specifically the focus potentiometer.... so my advice is don't replace the flyback unless you need to.
Cap kits are not available too many places for this model monitor, Bob Roberts and Arcadeshop are pretty much the only two I found with reasonable prices. I went with arcadeshop since I was already ordering a bunch of stuff there.
In my experience with mine I replaced the caps, reflowed all the RGB headers and board interconnect points. After that all I had to do was a bunch off fiddling with the adjustments to get it looking nice. Patience was the key here.
you could try finding someone with a scrap chassis and rob the potentiometer from it if you are worried that you won't be able to find a close enough replacement, they are often sold cheap by arcade hobbyists when the tubes go out (like I said new tubes can be hard to find) But the one you posted a link to looks compatible.
I recommend to do the cap kit and potentiometer and go from there. If you still have issues after that is done, I'd get the tube tested before moving forward with any further repairs.
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P-feif
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« Reply #14 on: July 08, 2014, 03:28:43 pm » |
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Send Bob and e-mail he may have it and just doesn't have it listed on his site. |
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