First cabinet/donkey kong no tube glow

[mrdude]

That's the one. If you haven't done any kind of soldering before, do the audio board first. Or better yet, try on a spare piece of something if you have it. Also, keep an eye out for a working 20EZ chassis....it might save you the headache

[Jacko58]

Will do. I just got the boards out and deep cleaned them with mean green let them soak then water, there now drying out ill give them till saturday then ill start capping the audio. Im sure ive got something laying around to practice on

[Jacko58]

Is there a way to test the flyback? Im recapping the audio and video boards saturday

[Jacko58]

https://imgur.com/a/SdjPt Should i be getting a reading on the bottom side of the board from the fuse? The right side is rusty

[BadMonkey]

Omg! Make sure you get a shot of penicillin after working on that thing! Seriously, rebuilding and cleaning that thing is a must (therealbobroberts.net) When you check a game, start with fuses, then check voltages, then go over all your connections/connectors including ic's on the board. Those simple checks take care of a lot of problems. Corrosion is self evident and needs to be addressed. Battery, rust, water damage, etc. johns video's will show you the way.

[mrdude]

https://imgur.com/a/SdjPt Should i be getting a reading on the bottom side of the board from the fuse? The right side is rusty

Yes, you should have continuity across it. If not, you could clean it up and try resoldering it. Typically with the flyback you can hear it when its on. Sounds like a high pitched faint whine.

[Jacko58]

Ok the test will be tomorrow fingers cross everyone

[Jacko58]

Ok i have the audio board recapped and will finish the video board tonight. I believe i need to replace the fly back please let me know if you agree. And if so what flyback should i go with there seems to be alot of options
https://imgur.com/a/En68w Picture of outside of flyback

[mrdude]

Let's see if that board plays blind before you replace the flyback. It's kind of a pain in the neck on the 20EZ because the adjustment knobs aren't there on the new ones, so you reconnect it and such.

http://www.cinelabs.com/sanyo/Sanyo_Install.pdf

You'll want the flyback for the Sanyo 20EZ: http://therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#flyback

[Jacko58]

Im on my last cap and theres this https://imgur.com/a/w7aBe. Please explain

[Jacko58]

Ok finished all caps made sure they were all in right. Plugged everything back in and same thing but this time the speaker starts with a loud noise then drops off a bit, still no glow in tube, no picture, and no game sound

[Jacko58]

I tested the hot and it read at 1780 before going down i also tested the lead on the board bj it read 1900. The fuses dont blow. What would you suggest?

[mrdude]

How to test a transistor:

http://www.vetco.net/blog/?p=184

[Jacko58]

Ok ive back tracked to the power supply, and with the board unplugged i couldnt get the 5v right it would kinda skip around but common number was 3v turned all the way up, then the 12v was at like 16 to 18 but also would go up and down. Board plugged in would read at like 0.7. Im guessing power supplys bad?

[mrdude]

I'd start there. Seems like you've got a bad power supply. Voltages should be steady.

There is a way to use a modern switching power supply easily, but it costs money... 

http://arcadeshop.com/nin-ps/nin-ps.htm

There's also a cap kit for the original power supply:

https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?action=search&category=Game+Parts&subcategory=Power+Supplies

Or you might find one on KLOV?