John's Arcade Forum - Classic Arcade and Pinball Collecting and Restoring Discussion Forum - RETRO MAME - Nintendo Vs Forum
September 21, 2024, 05:48:57 pm *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Welcome to the John's Arcade Forum. Glad you made it! Smiley
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2
  Print  
Author Topic: I'm back on my "Totally Screwed" Project  (Read 7118 times)
0 Members and 5 Guests are viewing this topic.
randywhatson
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66


View Profile
« on: June 24, 2015, 10:43:38 am »

Hey guys,

So I just bought a soldering station. Now I need to get the right "Cap kit" from Bob Roberts.

It is for an Electrohome G07. I am assuming it needs everything.

What should I get. Bob Roberts webpage is... uh... not very easy to navigate. It looks like there is a cap kit for like $15. Is that right (seems too cheap). Plus, should I get the flyback dealie. Obviously, I have no idea what I need.

Logged
iankellogg
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1433



View Profile
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2015, 12:59:12 pm »

First step, whats wrong with the monitor. Is it not working at all?

I strongly recommend against replacing the flyback unless it is absolutely required.

If you are looking for a cap kit just get his standard one.


When you bought the evil blue iron did you also buy a solder sucker?
Logged

https://iankellogg.com
Cap kits, eproms, and more
randywhatson
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66


View Profile
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2015, 02:47:16 pm »

You probably don't remember Ian, but you were helping me with an Ikari Warriors/centipede machine I purchased.

We figured out that the monitor needed a cap kit. This was  a few months back, and I had to wait to get paid before I could buy the parts/equipment needed for the job.

[see the post about being totally screwed].

Anyway, it is getting power but no picture/sound.

So I am trying to get everything I'll need together.

I will have to get one of those "Solder pullit things," unless there is a cheap, but better, alternative.

Oh, and I'll need some side cutters, right?
Logged
iankellogg
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1433



View Profile
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2015, 02:56:28 pm »

Yeah i forgot about that. I reply to so many posts i don't always read everything.

You will want a good pair of flush cutters and a solder pullit (sucker) there is also solder braid but that stuff isnt very good for clearing holes.


Did we ever determine if the input fuse is good? check B+ at all?
Logged

https://iankellogg.com
Cap kits, eproms, and more
randywhatson
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66


View Profile
« Reply #4 on: June 25, 2015, 09:58:57 am »

We checked the fuse. They are good. You said to just go ahead and give it a cap kit.
Logged
iankellogg
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1433



View Profile
« Reply #5 on: June 25, 2015, 10:18:04 am »

Its always a good idea to do a short check on the HOT, which for this guy is a bottle cap near the flyback.
Quicky of that is to put a multi meter on diode test and just test every direction between the two pins and the top of the transistor. if you ever get 0V then its no good and you should order one.

But go ahead and do the cap kit after checking the HOT.
Logged

https://iankellogg.com
Cap kits, eproms, and more
VertexGuy
Guest
« Reply #6 on: June 27, 2015, 10:19:16 pm »

Hey guys,

So I just bought a soldering station. Now I need to get the right "Cap kit" from Bob Roberts.

It is for an Electrohome G07. I am assuming it needs everything.

What should I get. Bob Roberts webpage is... uh... not very easy to navigate. It looks like there is a cap kit for like $15. Is that right (seems too cheap). Plus, should I get the flyback dealie. Obviously, I have no idea what I need.



If you are rebuilding a G07 I strongly advise you to put in a new flyback  ,, be REALLY careful not to mess with the horiz width coil those things get really brittle .
Same with the PCB board itself.. they crack like doritos .
Logged
randywhatson
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66


View Profile
« Reply #7 on: October 02, 2015, 08:17:05 pm »

Ok guys. I got a soldering station. I got a soldapullit (do those things suck or is it just me?), and I replaced the caps using Ians kit. However, I think I need to replace the flyback. Can I somehow get the other parts of one of those cap kits (like the fuses, flyback, and other stuff?

Scott
Logged
randywhatson
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66


View Profile
« Reply #8 on: October 11, 2015, 09:28:55 am »

Alright...

Picked up another Electrohome g07, swapped out the chassis, and the screen is alive... but it is green.

I got another monitor in the . I am not sure of the brand... but it says WG in a few labels, so I'm assuming it is a wells gardner.

The guy said that one works well. It looks like the bolt holes line up with my current setup. How hard would it be to switch monitors? I noticed the frames are not the same. So I am thinking of swapping out the WG monitor, and putting it in the frame. Remember, this is a Centipede cabinet. My one question deals with the power wires. The hookups are different, so how do I know which is negative and positive? The WG has two black wires, one with a white stripe. I am assuming the white stripe is negative. But the current setup has a tan and a brown wire. Will I screw everything up if I do it wrong? Or does it not matter?

Next, now that the screen is working (kind of), I can see that the game will not load. Upon powering up, it immediately goes to a screen that says error! and then some weird codes. I am guessing this is a Rom/Ram error. Does that mean the Ikari Warriors board stack is shot?

Scott
Logged
iankellogg
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1433



View Profile
« Reply #9 on: October 11, 2015, 10:38:51 am »

If you take a photo of the wg monitor pcb I can tell you what it is. It is usually pretty easy to swap monitors. It dies sound like the game had errors so if you look up the manual it should tell you what the error means and you can replace that chip and fix it
Logged

https://iankellogg.com
Cap kits, eproms, and more
randywhatson
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66


View Profile
« Reply #10 on: October 11, 2015, 10:48:30 am »

I cant figure out how to post pictures on this forum
Logged
iankellogg
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1433



View Profile
« Reply #11 on: October 11, 2015, 10:49:59 am »

Just post a link to a image hosted somewhere  else such as imgur.com
Logged

https://iankellogg.com
Cap kits, eproms, and more
randywhatson
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66


View Profile
« Reply #12 on: October 11, 2015, 10:57:29 am »

http://imgur.com/a/ZxKo9

OK, I think I did it!
Logged
iankellogg
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1433



View Profile
« Reply #13 on: October 11, 2015, 10:59:44 am »

That is a k4900
Logged

https://iankellogg.com
Cap kits, eproms, and more
randywhatson
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 66


View Profile
« Reply #14 on: October 11, 2015, 11:07:11 am »

I've heard those are good, right?

So the question is, which power wire is positive and negative?  There is one with a white stripe. Is that negative? How do I tell on the existing setup? One is like tan and one is tan and one is brown. I am thinking I'll just cut the connector off of the old chassis and use it.

Logged
Pages: [1] 2
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Install Simple Machines Forum Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!