Tube swapping.. the new standard in monitor rebuilding

[VertexGuy]

If you can remove a monitor tube from a frame, then you can do this too.

You just gotta find the right donor for your monitor.
Each monitor took me 10 mins. and they look awesome.

http://youtu.be/viwiNEFGQz8

http://youtu.be/ammWnaC0R_s

[amoore2600]

I have done this too. Its great. New monitor for almost nothing. Here's my video:

Arcade Monitor Rebuild with Tube Swap: http://youtu.be/Nj3kNfdWNdQ

[VertexGuy]

Did three in a row . same day , same chassis, same tv.
you do not have to use the degaussing plug from the monitor , the one from the tv fits.

For 25"  I use u2000 chassis , GE 2002 tv crt.

I have a swap tv one of each for all the chassis I have , soooooon.

[VertexGuy]

I don't know if you noticed, but the flyback and some other parts from that tv will work with the k7000..
don't cut nothing, save the chassis and put it in the closet in case you need another flyback someday.

[VertexGuy]

also,, if anybody here does a successful swap.. details on tv models and years please.
and what chassis they work with.

[knaagi]

I have done this on a Hantarex MTC900
Donor TV: Grundig ST55-830
Tube: Thomson A51EFS83X191, can also be found in other ST55, like the 908.

[lordkahless214]

I've just done this and am about to do another, first one I had to swap yokes, the one that's up next is straight swap.
the monitor I did already was a k5501 with tube was from a zenith concierge HY2534Y33 from 1999, Also did a Neotec S501 Tv is a RCA 24V414T from 2007 this was a drop in replacement.

It's pretty easy and looks great, heck if they are going to grind up tubes for recycling then let them grind our burned up tubes instead of the low mileage TV ones...



Edited to add newer info

[amoore2600]

also,, if anybody here does a successful swap.. details on tv models and years please.
and what chassis they work with.

Here are some great resources:

http://tubular.atomized.org/#s/p

http://junknet.net/donor-tvs

[VertexGuy]

also,, if anybody here does a successful swap.. details on tv models and years please.
and what chassis they work with.

Here are some great resources:

http://tubular.atomized.org/#s/p

http://junknet.net/donor-tvs

 Lemme do this again...
IF YOU DO A TUBE SWAP.......  put the info here if you confirm it works.
Trying to make an exclusive Johns arcade forums thing where users that tubeswap report the results.

I don't trust those list a few of those swaps were wrong.

[Prog]

If you have a TV that doesn't support tube swapping, you can often get RGB directly into some point of the board. The most common way is by means of the onscreen display (like menus and input buttons), which are usually dead simple. A chip outputs the video signal as RGB to another chip, and to overlay it on top of the screen, it puts out an "interrupt" signal down another pin. Usually the interrupt is just a voltage, allowing you to hardwire a switch between a permanent voltage source and the interrupt signal (to allow for menus and such) and then you can put your own RGB signal into the TV. Sync is kept by sending a C-sync down the active input. I haven't tried this myself yet, and I don't know how well clamping to a .05V IRE (instead of .0007V) would work yet, but the spec sheet says it shouldn't kill my Trinitron.

As a side note, my Trinitron supports multiple RGB interrupts but (probably) has the second one (and the YUV input) disabled at software level. The service menu setting to fix this is esoteric and dangerous so I'm not fiddling with that any time soon, even though the FUBAR geometry makes this set fairly worthless.

I learned this from this article, written from a guy that I know from another discussion board. http://mikejmoffitt.com/articles/0032-tvrgb.html

[iankellogg]

If you have a TV that doesn't support tube swapping, you can often get RGB directly into some point of the board. The most common way is by means of the onscreen display (like menus and input buttons), which are usually dead simple. A chip outputs the video signal as RGB to another chip, and to overlay it on top of the screen, it puts out an "interrupt" signal down another pin. Usually the interrupt is just a voltage, allowing you to hardwire a switch between a permanent voltage source and the interrupt signal (to allow for menus and such) and then you can put your own RGB signal into the TV. Sync is kept by sending a C-sync down the active input. I haven't tried this myself yet, and I don't know how well clamping to a .05V IRE (instead of .0007V) would work yet, but the spec sheet says it shouldn't kill my Trinitron.

As a side note, my Trinitron supports multiple RGB interrupts but (probably) has the second one (and the YUV input) disabled at software level. The service menu setting to fix this is esoteric and dangerous so I'm not fiddling with that any time soon, even though the FUBAR geometry makes this set fairly worthless.

I learned this from this article, written from a guy that I know from another discussion board. http://mikejmoffitt.com/articles/0032-tvrgb.html

That is a very interesting topic. How easy is it to get the tube/chassis into a proper frame?

[VertexGuy]

if its a drop in replacement it usually resembles the way the one you are taking out looks.
so far the only thing I really needed to swap over was the yolk plug .

[Prog]

That is a very interesting topic. How easy is it to get the tube/chassis into a proper frame?

I haven't quite gotten there yet.  I can't see why it would be any different from the tube standpoint, although the chassis might be an issue.
My Pole Position has what seems to be a perfect screen so I'd be doing this in my WIP MAME Multicade, which has absolutely no mounting hardware yet anyway.

[VertexGuy]

I wouldn't waste a perfect burn free screen 19" on a machine that can use a computer monitor.

I swapped a burn free monitor into my PP. what a difference it makes.
same with this centipede.

http://youtu.be/OW0_9W4WM4M

That swap took like 5 mins.   basically took the tube out of the monitor chassis , took the yolk plug and degauss plug off (cut it)
Took the tv back off, disconnected it the same as the monitor from the machine.  pulled the tube..
dropped it in the frame and put the bolts in..  hooked up the chassis.. soldered the yolk plug from the old machine monitor tube to the new tv tube and shrink tube wrapped em.
plug the bitch in..  perfect convergence too. 

If you are not 100% sure the tube is swap compatible check the ohm readings on the yolk plug vert and horiz.
ALSO.

ALWAYS check the tv before you take it apart and try to swap it in .. you may be swapping in a shitty tube.