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iankellogg
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« Reply #15 on: February 02, 2015, 07:34:22 pm » |
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well, pull the monitor out and sit it up on a table. take the PCB out of it by discharging the monitor and removing everything attached to the PCB so you can get the PCB out onto the table. Watch john's videos for that information.
I haven't looked at the schematic to see what is what yet but these are just general information for troubleshooting.
you'll want to try to identify fuses and large transistors, they will either be 3 pin large black things standing upright or round metal cans mounted on a piece of metal or the frame of the monitor. Check the fuses with resistance or continuity tests. For the big transistors you will want to remove them from the circuit board and test them using diode mode to see if there are any shorts. I believe john has a video on this as well, the tempest monitor repair video if i remember correctly. If everything is good then we will have to look closer.
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xcaliber
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« Reply #16 on: February 02, 2015, 09:14:39 pm » |
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I discharged the monitor and got it out. I went to check a fuse on the PCB and felt a tingle. There is a large capacitor that I think shocked me a little bit. Do you think I did something wrong with the discharge? I didn't really hear anything, but when I place the screwdriver near the hole in the tube nothing!
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iankellogg
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« Reply #17 on: February 02, 2015, 09:19:11 pm » |
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there was probably still 200V on the input cap. usually they self discharge but maybe that monitor doesn't have a discharge resistor. If you did something wrong you would be on your ass wondering how you lived.
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xcaliber
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« Reply #18 on: February 02, 2015, 09:28:10 pm » |
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Thanks for all the help so far Ian! I will tell my wife that if something goes awry to give you some of the life insurance money or at least buy a cap kit from you and finish the job. I remember John saying that the caps sometimes leak. There is some clear caulk like material around the cap. Also, if that cap hasn't discharged all the way how do I get it to discharge?
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iankellogg
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« Reply #19 on: February 02, 2015, 09:32:45 pm » |
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The white gunk or sometimes clear is probably hot glue that was installed when they built the monitor, it is there to hold the very large caps and keep them from breaking off the PCB. The caps can leak though and its usually a orange color if its been leaking for a while.
As far as trying to discharge the cap, just be careful not to touch the bottom of the board and when you get the board safely out, look at the caps and with a wire or better yet, a resistor, short the pins of the big caps together
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xcaliber
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« Reply #20 on: February 03, 2015, 06:59:45 pm » |
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Ian,
I can't find any numbers on the chassis that would identify the monitor. Only the numbers on the back of the tube.
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xcaliber
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« Reply #21 on: February 08, 2015, 01:47:11 am » |
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I finally got around to checking the last fuse. It was beside the large cap that buzzed me. You were right, it was indeed blown. It is a 3/4A 250v fuse. I plan to assemble the cocktail in the morning. It is currently in pieces. I spent most of the day taking it apart to clean it. Once it is put together I will check the AC as you suggested.
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iankellogg
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« Reply #22 on: February 08, 2015, 07:55:21 am » |
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Well the first thing you will need to do is check the input diode bridge for shorts. I know that is pretty light on details but I can't look up anything right now. Then if the diodes are fine try to find big transistors and check them for shorts
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iankellogg
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« Reply #24 on: March 22, 2015, 02:30:52 pm » |
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absolutely not. You can't replace film capacitors with electrolytic. did you check the rest of the caps? make sure the voltages and values match.
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xcaliber
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« Reply #25 on: March 27, 2015, 08:02:44 pm » |
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Well Ian I F'd up. I assumed I had a Sega MC2000 monitor. I still can't find anything other than the sticker on the tube that notates it is a Sega. I looked for the chassis info and all the post I have seen state that they have a MC2000. Anyway, back to the caps. I just started "shot gunning the caps". I will have to do some more research on the chassis. In the meantime, how would I identify the bridge rectifier?
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iankellogg
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« Reply #26 on: March 27, 2015, 08:12:48 pm » |
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Take a proper picture of the chassis and post it here. I'll be able to identify it.
The bride rectifier will 4 diodes placed closely together probably near where the fuses are.
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xcaliber
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« Reply #27 on: March 27, 2015, 08:59:31 pm » |
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xcaliber
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« Reply #28 on: March 27, 2015, 09:14:29 pm » |
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Sorry Ian, camera didn't do so well. If these are crap I can take a couple more.
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iankellogg
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« Reply #29 on: March 28, 2015, 11:40:28 am » |
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Thats' a Kagi monitor. a known pile of trash that was used often in sega cocktails
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