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Author Topic: Gyruss Issue (AGAIN)  (Read 3635 times)
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Jack
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« on: December 28, 2012, 11:56:57 pm »

Hey Forum,
I'm having even moar trouble with my Gyruss game. This time, when I plug it in the monitor and the fluorescent light come on, but nothing else. No video, audio, coin door lights, and I'm suspecting no power to the PCB either. I believe it is a faulty Power Supply, but I don't know what to replace (there are many things that look like they with power). Please leave a response if you think you know the answer to my problem.

CosmicGyruss
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Jack
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« Reply #1 on: December 29, 2012, 02:55:36 pm »

Hey Forum,
I'm having even moar trouble with my Gyruss game. This time, when I plug it in the monitor and the fluorescent light come on, but nothing else. No video, audio, coin door lights, and I'm suspecting no power to the PCB either. I believe it is a faulty Power Supply, but I don't know what to replace (there are many things that look like they with power). Please leave a response if you think you know the answer to my problem.

CosmicGyruss
from the COSMIC ARCADE

I just went out to the garage and looked at my Gyruss. When looking at the back of the game, on the right side, mounted about 24" off the ground is the power supply. You'll see a bunch of wires going to it that are mounted with screws. You need to test and see if voltage is present at the power supply. You do this with a multimeter. Put it on DC volts (unless your meter is auto sensing) and put the black lead of the multimeter on the terminal labeled ground (on the power supply) and the red on either +5, -5, or the 12v lugs (they are all labeled) and see if you get a reading of +5, -5, or 12V. If you don't then the supply is bad or it's not getting wall voltage. You can test to see if the power supply is receiving voltage by testing the 110VAC lugs on the power supply (PUT the meter on AC VOLTS to test that! And don't touch those 110V terminals with your hand, you will get shocked!)

Replacing the power supply on the game is VERY easy to do. You can use this one:

http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=4&zenid=1eh3281k3nmpe5bsc344rd5h07
« Last Edit: December 29, 2012, 02:58:29 pm by blkdog7 » Logged
Jack
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« Reply #2 on: December 29, 2012, 05:10:03 pm »

Ok, thank you for the help. Sadly my dog chewed up my multimeter cords so I need to go and get a new one again. Also thanks for the link because I really didn't want to bring a light down to the dark arcade to check.
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Jack
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« Reply #3 on: December 29, 2012, 08:33:32 pm »

Ok, thank you for the help. Sadly my dog chewed up my multimeter cords so I need to go and get a new one again. Also thanks for the link because I really didn't want to bring a light down to the dark arcade to check.

Sweet. If it's the power supply that is bad, it should be a pretty easy fix! Keep us posted, interested to hear how it works out.
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« Reply #4 on: December 29, 2012, 08:58:40 pm »

I'll be testing it tomorrow, hopefully no damage was done. I got a new multimeter, same type I had before. Should I disconnect the power supply from everything in case it is feeding a HV into the LV parts? Or will that mess up the test?
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« Reply #5 on: December 29, 2012, 09:48:39 pm »

I'll be testing it tomorrow, hopefully no damage was done. I got a new multimeter, same type I had before. Should I disconnect the power supply from everything in case it is feeding a HV into the LV parts? Or will that mess up the test?

Kind of hard to test for voltages with the power supply disconnected. I would say, "NO!" the power supply needs to be connected in order to properly test the voltages.
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Jack
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« Reply #6 on: December 29, 2012, 10:19:38 pm »

I don't think you get what I mean. Not disconnect it from AC120 In, but disconnect the PCB and stuff so no damage could happen when i'm testing the power supply.
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« Reply #7 on: December 31, 2012, 04:13:01 pm »

I tested the power supply on one terminal. I put the black wire on "DC COM" and the red wire on "+5V" I got 0.00 volts on the meter. I think this proves that at least that part is dead. So I'll go ahead and buy a new one. UPDATE I just read back your post that I connected to DC COM instead of ground. Should I try again? Or does that matter. On my multimeter it says COM on the black wire so I tried that (and I forgot what you said). UPDATE: I tested again, the right way and I got a slight change in voltage (0.01) volts. I know there is line voltage because I heard the power supply buzzing. I'll go ahead and buy a new one but I need your help on installing it right.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2012, 04:28:10 pm by CosmicGyruss » Logged

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« Reply #8 on: December 31, 2012, 04:22:38 pm »

I tested the power supply on one terminal. I put the black wire on "DC COM" and the red wire on "+5V" I got 0.00 volts on the meter. I think this proves that at least that part is dead. So I'll go ahead and buy a new one. I just read back your post that I connected to DC COM instead of ground. Should I try again? Or does that matter. On my multimeter it says COM on the black wire so I tried that (and I forgot what you said)

Yeah, the DC COM would be ground I am sure.

The only other thing you can double check is to make sure that power supply is actually receiving 110v AC voltage. That power supply is converting 110V AC to the +5 DC, -5DC, and +12VDC. If the 110V AC is missing then you have a different problem.
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Jack
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« Reply #9 on: December 31, 2012, 04:30:55 pm »

I put all the updates in the post above. It was buzzing so it has voltage and I even checked the fuses with my multimeter. So I will now finally order the power supply replacement. UPDATE: It's working, sound is fine everything is perfect. Sorry I forgot to tell you guys Cheesy
« Last Edit: October 26, 2013, 10:03:41 pm by CosmicGyruss » Logged

Jack
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