Original Galaga :: Fixed PCB Now Controls Don't Respond...

[tokyopunchout]

First of all I'm new to all of this, so thanks in advance for taking it easy on me.

The skinny is that when plugged in and powered up - it makes the initial explosion game noise (which I'm guessing is normal), but the monitor never flickers on and the back tube has no glow at all. I've given it about an hour of being powered on to make sure I wasn't just being impatient - no dice. The sound seems to react when you push the Fire button, or the Player 1 / Player 2 buttons, but the sound struggles / is garbled.

Here's some pics of the monitor for reference (sorry some of the orientations are askew):



I should first say that I noticed a wad of electrical tape on the power cord:

So after I unplugged it I discovered that it seems all 3 parts of the cord had been completely severed at some point and then stripped enough to make a connection and twisted back together. As seen here:

I'm pretty sure something should be done about this - what do you guys suggest?

Also, I'm new with using a multimeter, but I made sure to buy one that could audibly check for continuity. After watching a bunch of John's videos and reading some of y'alls' advice here on the boards - I know I need to be checking to see that the PCB & Monitor are getting power, but this power supply is the original (without any visible markings of what's what) & so I'm not really sure which two ends to be checking for the respective parts? I'm looking for a little guidance here. I was able to pull out every fuse I could find and test for continuity & I'm glad to report they all tested fine.
Here's a pic of the power supply:



So this is my 1st project - to get this Galaga back up and running in top-shape, but I can't do it without you guys so I appreciate any advice you guys can give.

On a side note: I was able to pick this game up for $100 after talking the lady seller down from $200 (due to a recent divorce, just like the Space Invaders/Stargate user). This child was surely neglected as the back had been off for years & the place she was storing it was in a pool house with definite humidity issues (think many, many summers in New Orleans). But I'm bound and determined to make this poor bastard a bread winner! (figuratively speaking)

[John's Arcade]

Sounds like the PCB is getting power, the game is playing blind. The "power supply" image you posted is your transformer at the bottom of the cabinet. The original Power Supply for Galaga is a linear power supply and will look like a PCB mounted on your wall like this:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=226517

For now, we want to get the monitor working (although you should check the voltages on the powers supply too to make sure you're voltages are not too high or too low).

#1 - Is the monitor getting 110V? There is a molex connector at the monitor with a black and white wire on it. Disconnect it and measure the voltage going away from the monitor.
#2 - If you have voltage, it's time to start looking at fuses on the monitor chassis. Test them with your continuity test on your meter
#3 - Bad fuse? Probably a bad hot or flyback. I would shotgun the monitor and replace all caps, flyback, and HOT. Voltage regulator too. Bob Roberts sells a deluxe G07 rebuild kit that will have everything you need. I have covered G07 rebuilds in my videos, check the Journey vids.

You will want to replace that power cord. For now, just tape it back up and replace it later before you put it back in your house. You can go to home depot and get a replacement cord or just cut-up a quality extension cord.

[iankellogg]

First clean that wiring up, that's a hazard.


take a look at this guide
http://lawnmowerman.rotheblog.com/rgvac/G07_Flowchart.jpg

[John's Arcade]

For testing purposes, there is nothing wrong with just electrical taping that thing up.

I wouldn't leave that game in my house unintended like that, though.

[iankellogg]

Yeah it won't kill you taped up but it is still a hazard

[tokyopunchout]

Thanks for your quick replies!
I had to work late tonight, but I'm gonna head straight from work tomorrow to try some of these ideas and see what I can find out.

When I was reviewing my other pictures of the monitor chassis, it doesn't look like there are any removable fuses on there... Is that possible? As you suggested, I'm going to disconnect the molex and measure going away from the monitor to see if it's getting 110V.

Also - my mistake on thinking the  transformer was the power supply, but now that I've located the power supply -  do I need to be testing it with the multimeter? If so I'm a little confused on where the leads need to go, as the video I watched where you took that Commando cab home and changed out the power supply had one of the more modern looking ones & thus visually I could understand where and how to test that one. I'm not real sure where/how to test this one. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

I'm gonna go watch that G07 Rebuild Journey video...

[John's Arcade]

Thanks for your quick replies!
I had to work late tonight, but I'm gonna head straight from work tomorrow to try some of these ideas and see what I can find out.

When I was reviewing my other pictures of the monitor chassis, it doesn't look like there are any removable fuses on there... Is that possible? As you suggested, I'm going to disconnect the molex and measure going away from the monitor to see if it's getting 110V.

Also - my mistake on thinking the  transformer was the power supply, but now that I've located the power supply -  do I need to be testing it with the multimeter? If so I'm a little confused on where the leads need to go, as the video I watched where you took that Commando cab home and changed out the power supply had one of the more modern looking ones & thus visually I could understand where and how to test that one. I'm not real sure where/how to test this one. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

I'm gonna go watch that G07 Rebuild Journey video...

Yes, disconnect the monitor two wire molex and measure for AC voltage on the side of the plug going to the bottom of the cabinet.

The fuses are typically soldered onto a G07. Bob Roberts sells replacement "pig tail" fuses or you can add a fuse holder.

Below is the pinout of Galaga. You need to get your meter on the edge connector pins that are labeled below. Check the +5V. Although, your problem seems to be monitor related since the game is playing blind. But, you will want to make sure the voltages are good too.

[tokyopunchout]

First thing's first - I took ya'lls' advice and just replaced the fire-hazard-waiting-to-burn-my-house-down Power Cable with a 14 gauge cable ;). I liked the idea of the little knotted-off service loop tethered down to the base of the cabinet, so I repeated that idea here:


The good news is that when I disconnected the molex from the power supply to the monitor it looks like the readings were good coming in at 124.9V:


John - thanks for providing that pinout chart (super helpful)- I tried to get some readings, but I'm not sure if it's just my rookie-level multimeter skills (or lack thereof), but when trying to get a read on F6 (the +5VDC) I kept getting it jumping all over the place from 0.0V to 4.5V max (I only got the max 4.5V when I turned the little plastic voltage dial on the power supply all the way up). Maybe I'm doing it wrong - I'm using the multimeter's Red contact on the Pin side (Top side in this pic) and the multimeter's Black contact on the back solder point (not seen on this pic as it's on the backside of the power supply):


It seemed like no matter which pinout / and corresponding back solder combo I tried I couldn't ever get it to a full 5V - and they weren't ever really solid on any number - they would keep jumping around from 0 - hovering somewhere between 2-4V.

Might this be indicative of a faulty power supply? Or just my rookie mis-readings on the multimeter?

[John's Arcade]

The Galaga pinout is for the game PCB, not the power supply. Are you measuring at the game PCB or the power supply? The Game PCB will have an edge connector. F is on the parts side, 6 is on the solder side.

From the large connector on the power supply here's what wire is what:

(taken from KLOV)

Orange wires = 12VDC
Red wires = 5VDC
All other wires go the gnd (yellow, yellow/black, yellow/white, yellow/violet, white/green...I think that's it)....EXCEPT for the solid white wire. The solid white wire is the supply voltage for the coin meter (I always leave it unconnected). The schematics lists it as 7.2 volts....I've never actually checked it to see what the voltage is. I guess if you wanted to keep the coin meter.....check the coin meter and see what voltage it's rated at. It's usually stamped on it's housing. Supply voltage accordingly.

Also, check your voltages UNDER LOAD with the game on and the PCB plugged in.

So, your monitor is getting power. Did you check the monitor's fuses? I bet one is toast.

[tokyopunchout]

Thanks again for your fast reply n guidance!

Ok, so I went over there today to try and get some solid multimeter readings and wasn't able to really get much of anything... For example when I was trying to read the DC on F6 (5V) UNDER LOAD with the game on and the PCB plugged in, it wouldn't show any power at all. But what's odd is when I kept my left hand on F (5V) on the board side and then moved my right hand to 7(Ground) on the solder side, it read out at a steady 5V. I know I'm a total n00b when it comes to being comfortable with a multimeter, but WTF is going on here?  

I thought you were supposed to go one end on the power board and the other on it's corresponding solder, right?
Here's a shot of where I was testing (on F6 - you can't see my other hand on the corresponding #6 on the solder side) - am I way off here?


Also, the only fuse I could find on the G07 monitor board was this guy soldered right here:

I set my multimeter to be able to read up to 200 DC, but with it making contact on either end of the fuse - I got nothing.
Was I just supposed to check this fuse for continuity?

I tried testing in both AC & DC using either connectors on the multimeter, but wasn't able to get any solid readings. So far the only things that I've been able to use the multimeter on to great success have been the monitor's black & white molex disconnected that registered 124.9V (as seen in my last post) and the fuses that I could pull out all tested ok for continuity.

On a side note to not make today a total wash of progress I was able to fix the marquee's flashing intermittent bulb issue by changing out the florescent starter, so now that I've taken the marquee off to clean it, it was nice to see it lit up to its full glory.

Now if I can just get that monitor back to life...

[John's Arcade]

When you test fuses, you do it with the game off. No power. Put your multimeter on continuity with beep. Touch your two leads together, does it beep?!? If so, you are ready to test. Put a lead on either end of the fuse. Does it beep? If so, the fuse is good. There are two fuses on a G07 chassis. Find them both and test.

Read this:

http://www.pinrepair.com/g07/

It seems like you are not understanding that Galaga Pinout. There are two sides of the Galaga PCB. The parts side and the solder side. On the parts side, the connections are labeled with letters. On the solder side, they are labeled with numbers. You don't need to grab positive on one side or negative on the other.

If I was checking voltages on the PCB I would probably just stick my negative multimeter lead on a screw somewhere in the cabinet or on the monitor frame and then poke around on the edge connector of the game PCB with my positive red lead. Or, if you want, you can put positive on F and negative on H

Also, seems like your Galaga has a filter board on it. Might want to just toss that. It's between the PCB and the edge connector harness.

[tokyopunchout]

So after looking at these:



I finally found that second fuse & sure enough the Fuse F901 is toast.

So I guess I have to replace/resolder the fuse and while I'm at it, I probably should do the capkit/flyback/hot right?



When testing the PCB (correctly this time ) here were my readings:


1. A1 Ground = 0V
2. B2 Speaker = 7V
3. C3 Lockout Solenoid/Coin Counter = 10V
4. D4 P1 Start Lamp/P2 Start Lamp = 0V
5. E5 +12 VDC = 14.8-14.9V
6. F6 +5 VDC = 4.9V
7. H7 GND = 0V
8. J8 Service/Test = 4.9V
9. K9 (haha... "The Doge" Pin) Coin 1/Coin2 = 4.9V "Such amaze, much volts, many galaga"
10. L10 P1 Start\P2 Start = 4.9V
11. M11 P1 Fire/Jump / P2 Fire/Jump = 4.9V
12. N12 P1 Left\ P2 Left = 4.9V
13. P13 P1 Down2\2P Down2 = 4.9V
14. R14 P1 Right\P2 Right = 4.9V
15. S15 P1 Up2\2P Up2 = 4.9V
16. T16 = 4.9V
17. U17 = 0V
18. V18 = 0V
19. W19 = 0V
20. X20 = 0V
21. Y21 Coin Counter 2 / Table1 = 4.9V
22. Z22 GND = 3.9V

Any of these readings seem problematic?

[John's Arcade]

The voltages for the PCB are fine. 4.9V is good.

Fix the monitor! And, yes... I would shotgun the monitor. Caps, flyback, hot, and voltage regulator. F901 blew because the HOT and/or Flyback are toast.

Bob Roberts has what you need. Get the super deluxe G07 rebuild kit. It's not hard to do.

[tokyopunchout]

Thanks again for all your advice bud - this thread will likely go dark until I get everything replaced, but then except my next reply with a picture of a fully working cabinet!
(Fingers crossed)

[tokyopunchout]

VIDEO:
The good news is I replaced the monitor chassis with a working one and I finally have video!
The bad news is it looks like this:

On boot -it starts out with less lines and then by about 1 minute ON, it turns into these full horizontal bars and stays like that. No amount of adjusting pots will help.
Video Example here (sorry about the orientation of the video):
http://dunkcitypodcast.com/galaga/galaga_monitor_at_boot.mov

When I first fired it up the lines were going the other way (all vertical) - so I powered it down, took out the PCB - separated the two, and on a flat surface, pressed all the chips in. The above picture/video are the result after pressing the chips in - as you can see the lines are all horizontal now.

(I realized all of my orientation references are probably flipped, as the game plays with the monitor in shmup/vertical position, but I left them referencing the 'what you see' orientations)

Anywho, I'm looking for some advice here on exactly which chips I might need to replace and where I could maybe snag some? Or if you think any of these video issues could be solved simply though removing & cleaning the chips?

SOUND:
The other issue with the PCB is that the only sound that plays properly is the explosion sound.  I found this article on arcadeshop.com:
"If you are missing all but the explosion sounds, there are two BiPolar ROMs on the top (CPU) board that are part of the circuit that generate all the other sounds; chances are that one or both of these are bad. Another problem is the two 7489 RAM chips in the same circuit go bad. You can also look for resistor packs in the same area that have leads detaching from them. Only the 05xx and the 54xx chips are specific to Galaga. Distorted sounds: Sound decoder prom at 1D, the CD4066 at 3A; failure of any or all of these can cause distortion or loss of sound. -James M."

I'm a damn brand new in the woods when it comes to PCBs here - so any hand-held advice here would be super appreciated.

Thanks in advance!