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iankellogg
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« Reply #105 on: May 28, 2015, 07:59:56 am » |
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well videos always help. but general things apply as well. check AC voltage to the PCB. Check DC voltage at an IC. check AC voltage at theIC and make sure it is less than 200mV at the IC. Consider putting it in test mode per the manual .
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P-feif
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« Reply #106 on: May 28, 2015, 04:50:51 pm » |
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Well I can check the voltages but it's modified with a Souza 4 in 1 kit so the test switch only opens a set up menu now. No more test mode. I'll do some poking around hopefully soon, and let you know what I find.
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P-feif
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« Reply #107 on: May 30, 2015, 12:20:28 pm » |
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Did some poking around. Found that the wire harness has a white connector a few inches before it goes into the black PCB edge connector. The pins in the white connector seemed a bit loose. I found that the male side of the connector the pins have small slots down the center of the pins and so they could be spread open a bit with a very small flat blade screw driver, so I spread them open. The connector felt nice and tight after that. Played about 8 or 10 games and made sure to be a bit rough on the game to see if I could get it to reset. Nothing... It played perfectly.
Now back to that weird sound issue. I think I need to buy a logic probe and learn how to use it.
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P-feif
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« Reply #108 on: October 24, 2015, 08:55:16 pm » |
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So I haven't worked on this thing since last Spring. Back then I noticed that my high score save kit was filling the tables with garbage so I contacted Slava who sells the kits and he wanted me to send him my PCB so he could take a look at it. Well a few days ago I finally got a break from all my Summer time projects and I sent him my PCB. We'll see what happens next.
Next up, restore the control panel and coin door. ;)
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P-feif
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« Reply #109 on: November 02, 2015, 10:06:05 am » |
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Just got this back from Slava.... Hi Tom, sorry for taking so long, but work has been a bitch this week. Anyway, I think I finally fixed your sound problem. Without getting into all the technical, your sound amp needed to be replaced. I also think the issue where the high scores were getting corrupted was because the VRA daughterboard, which sits above the HSS board was not sitting in the socket properly. Someone had replaced the original socket at some point with a very odd one. I replaced that socket and added some risers so that the VRA sits properly. I also cleaned up all the wiring in the back from the previous hack.
Just going to let it run the rest of the day and see if anything odd happens. I don’t expect it to.
This guy has been great to  with. I'd highly recommend him for help with your Pac Man and Ms Pac Man games. It will be nice to get this PCB back and in the game. This "should" mean that I'm don't working in the back of this game so I can do the control panel and coin door and then move on to my Space Invaders game. I won't restore the cabinet for the Ms Pac Man any time soon. Maybe in the next few years. I can live with the "character" that is has for now. I'd rather spend my money collecting a few more games and then restore the cabinets one at a time. Thanks SLAVA! |
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P-feif
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« Reply #110 on: November 05, 2015, 01:08:11 am » |
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Well I got the PCB back from Slava and he got the high score save kit fixed. Also he worked on my sound issue. The audio amp (chip, top right corner of the PCB) had to be replaced. It sounds awesome!!!!!!! I love it!!!!!!!!
Right now the game is on and I'm going to leave it on for a few hours just to make sure that the high score tables don't fill with garbage but I'm pretty confident in Slava's skills so right now I think it's fixed!!
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P-feif
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« Reply #111 on: January 05, 2016, 10:03:33 am » |
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I'm trying to get the coin door straightened out. If anyone can post a pic of the inside of their (unmolested) Ms. Pacman coin door it would be of great help to me. I'm having some trouble understanding the wire schematic vs the actual door. I'll post some pictures. Someone has butchered the wiring of this coin door at one point. Here's a picture of the back of the coin door.  One the left lower corner you will see two red wires and one blue wire. The schematic shows a red and blue going to the slam switch, so do both reds to the slam switch or just one? On the right side there is an orange wire with a "pin" on the end of it. I believe that it should go to a two pin connector (kind of like the one with green/b and light blue/r wires) and I also think that someone removed that connector and the light blue wire that use to go to it so it should be a connector with orange/b and light blue/r. That's my guess. The schematic show that both connectors with green/b - light blue/r and the orange/b - light blue/r should be plugged into some thing called a credit bypass pc. I don't know what a credit bypass pc is. Any of you know? Or where is should be mounted? Any help appreciated. I just want to get the coin door working as it was intended to work. |
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P-feif
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« Reply #112 on: January 06, 2016, 11:28:32 am » |
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One more thing I forgot to post about this coin door. The schematic show a 100 uf capacitor on the slam (tilt) switch. Is it really suppose to be soldered to the tabs on the switch or is it located somewhere else, like on the PCB. I need to know that before I solder a capacitor to the switch and put power to it. Don't want to fry anything.  |
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iankellogg
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« Reply #113 on: January 06, 2016, 11:29:50 am » |
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according to the schematic that is soldered to the terminals of the switch
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P-feif
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« Reply #114 on: January 06, 2016, 01:52:04 pm » |
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Thank you Ian, if there is anyone that I trust... That's how I'll do it then. Any chance you know what a credit by pass is??? There's a few connectors that are supposed to plug into it. Whatever "it" is.
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iankellogg
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« Reply #115 on: January 06, 2016, 01:57:51 pm » |
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The credit bypass board is how pacman sets the pricing. If you only plan to do 1 credit = 1  or freeplay you dont need it. |
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P-feif
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« Reply #116 on: January 09, 2016, 10:53:52 pm » |
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O.k. then I got it done and it all works. Thanks Ian! Maybe I'll look for a credit bypass board just to have it. I did get the coin mechs working, the coin counter works, the test switch works, the credit button works, I even set the 4 in 1 kit to 1 coin 1 play and tried it and it coins up just fine. Set it back to freeplay for my use. For now this thing is done at least until I decide to restore the cabinet, which most likely won't be for at least a few years. Thanks for everyone's help and advice! Next up Space Invaders!  |
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« Last Edit: January 09, 2016, 10:56:07 pm by P-feif »
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KennyL
Jr. Member
 Offline
Posts: 67
I'm just an average guy, I guess.
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« Reply #117 on: January 11, 2016, 08:28:56 am » |
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Congrats on getting it all working well.
Side note, I know it's none of my business but that is a large variety of laundry detergent/fabric softener. Heh.
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P-feif
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« Reply #118 on: January 16, 2016, 03:46:11 pm » |
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My wife does that extreme couponing. LOL! Right now they are buy 2 get 3 free and she has a coupon so.......
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« Last Edit: January 16, 2016, 03:50:42 pm by P-feif »
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