What about one's tongue -- is that still considered poor practice?

Asking for a friend.

Ah right, and good to know!

I have the same Fluke as John.

In removing the old Galaga PS components and testing my work I just happen across this continuity question on the iso trans. In any case it's working, and a friend with a similar setup also had continuity so I guess it's normal.

I'm not 100% sure I know where you're talking about reading continuity, but WITH THE MACHINE UNPLUGGED, if you are testing continuity on both connections of a secondary coil, you will have low ohms, and will show continuity.  Do not test continuity there with the transformer "hot" because this will be the 120v output, and you'll blow up your meter..

The isolation transformer has two outputs (black and white) coming out on top. It's there that I happen to touch them and found continuity (with game unplugged).

I've metered off AC many times -- I wouldn't think 120v is enough to blow it (or it's internal fuse).

So it seems continuity is normal on those AC outs. Also the rest of the wiring instructions were right other than one solid white I had which required ground, not 5v.

I'm a few months into a Galaga restore, home stretch. When I got it the old power supply was in place but it had been converted to use a switching power supply. To simplify things I decided to remove the old power supply PCB and transformer, following http://www.arcadeshop.com/gal-tips.htm. Things are going well, but I noticed that I’m getting continuity on both AC outputs of the remaining isolation transformer. Is this normal or do I have a short somewhere?

Also, regarding the larger connector to the old power PCB, arcadeshop said:

- Attach ALL red and the one white wire to the +5 on the PS
- Attach the orange wire to the +12 on the PS
- Attach ALL yellow wires to ground

Mine are all yellow and two white, though some of them have stripes. Likely there were several variations of wire color in these, but I’m not sure quite what to do. I checked continuity on a couple and found one yellow to be ground, and one white to be ground and coin 1.

http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/2015-09-15-galaga-old-ps.jpg (this won't help)

Hello from the middle of California.

Thanks, yeah it's a fun game to return to repeatedly. And thanks John for your videos, your Gyruss series was my template and a huge help.

The restore itself is finally complete -- this included painting the front, back and top of the cab, coin door, full control panel restore, new blackout bezel (thanks Carl), high score save kit, and general gut tweaks. I left the original side art and bezel art alone.

I've yet to find a top marquee bracket or Centuri coin door (that isn't $200), and swapping out the speakers would be nice but haven't found a suitable replacement yet. Later on I would like to get back to trying to fix the PCB it came, but need a rom burner and general test rig.

Thanks for everyone's help on this! It's now cozy'd up to the wall in my workshop and plays great.

Everything else on that dip seems to work but switch 8. I think I'll just leave it and turn down the volume. : p

How can I know which type of switch to replace it with?

Measure it with your multimeter. dip switches fail all the time.

Yeah I wondered if it's just a bad switch. Oh boy, ok.

On my new original Gyruss PCB, which I've installed Matt's high score save kit, the attract sound WILL NOT TURN OFF. SW2 8 is OFF, any ideas what gives?

It's a 93LC56/SN.

Interestingly you can get it into this endless "security ng!" loop in mame as well if you flip the "debug" dip switch. Turning it on seems to reset it. But the board has no dips. There is an area marked reset with four pads.

I've tried holding down service, test, etc. It does coin up. But can't get past this message.