Yeah, I heard John talk about it in his end of the year review episodes, but never really got the exact details. I kind of doubt that they are just a fancy looking lamplet switch, since he said he had an electrician wire it. It sure seems more like they were a circuit disconnect switch of some kind.

Question for John or anyone who might know. That cool 4 switch red circuit breaker at the top of John's stairs - what is it? Where can I get one of those? Is it a 80 amp sub panel with 4 breakers? Or are those just 4 fancy switches for the circuits, but the breakers are actually in the main panel?

Thanks.

If you get zero results, it might mean that your string of text is too long. Maximum is 180 characters in the search box.

Hey everyone,

I installed a high score save kit on my Time Pilot (had to desolder z80 and solder a socket for daughter card), and then sooooo stupidly plugged in the edge connector backwards. I saw the game boot up to garbled video, realized my mistake, and quickly shut it off.

When I switched it back proper, it booted up, displayed garbled video, and had no sound with the high score kit daughter card.

I removed the high score kit, put back a regular z80 in the new socket, and now it has sound, but still garbled video. I must have fried something on the board. There are no obvious signs of anything burnt or discolored traces, the board is quite clean.

Anything I can check to start eliminating culprits?

I am thinking that a pair of diodes that are in-line just after the 12v pin on the edge connector might be toast. How do I test those? Those have 135 printed on them.

Thanks John! I bought this. And so it begins. Someone locally has a 20ez monitor and an original bezel.

I think I am going to use a repro control panel and overlay, rather than try to wait for an original one to come up (I need new repro side art anyway). Any thoughts on the best place to get a DK CPO?

I just got an empty blue Japanese DK cabinet (plywood), and was contemplating what to do with it. I am leaning towards a full DK restore. The cabinet is in great shape, a few scuffs here and there, no artwork at all. The model number on the tag is PCKG1-UP-US, and a ~3000 serial number. I'm assuming this was a PlayChoice conversion at some point? There is no original DK tag on it (missing the back door as well).

It is completely stripped, so I'll need wiring, monitor, coin door, CP, artwork, controls, power supply, the whole entire works. It has a mount for the 4 board DK set, which is what was original to the Japanese cabs if I understand correctly.

Has anyone done this kind of full restore before? Is there any kind of full list of parts that I'd need? Any rough estimates on cost for full restoration? I'm mentally totaling things up and come to around $800 or so when all said and done. Does that sound right?

If you had a blank slate DK blue cab, what would you do with it?

Thanks!

-Adam

And here is my string for arcade only, no pins:

("coin op*"|(upright|standup|coin*|quarter*|taito|bally|midway game|arcade)|coin-op*|coinop|neogeo|"neo-geo"|"neo geo"|arkade|acade|acrade|arcade|aracade) -wash* -xbox -dry* -tic*

You can change the exclusions at the end. I got a lot of results for washers, dryers, xbox, and nfl football tickets (game and standup), so those helped me filter them out.

Ok, I modified the string to be a bit more efficient, and leave some extra characters at the end for exclusions. I combined all the (xyz game) statements into a single one to save space.

("pin ball"|"coin op*"|(upright|standup|coin|quarters game)|"coin-op"|coinop|pinbal|pinabll|pinnball|arkade|acade|acrade|arcade|pinball|aracade) -wash* -dry* -xbox

I also changed a couple from parens () to quotes to do exact phrase searches. I was getting lots of results for towing hitches with and pins because of (pin ball) but "pin ball" filters those out, and most people will be posting "pin" right next to "ball", so "pin ball" should work.