I just added an ATX to my Pacman for the same reasons. Prior to this I was using a normal switcher but needed it for my jamma cabinet. I noticed that if I tap into the monitor power supply I get no disturbance (not sure of the correct word) but when I tap into say the marquee light or at the AC line in right after on/off switch I get a very light snow look on monitor. This may be a ground issue, Pac Jamma adapter issue, or not "clean" AC as it hasn't went through line filter yet, although Marquee light has so.... anyway. My vote would be tap into monitor power (which had already been hacked once on my line)  but I haven't again myself because I hadn't figured out how to account for ground plug that ATX power supplies have but other switcher didn't. Just my two cents. Good luck.

Thanks a lot. I had seen the complete sticks on arcade and searched boneyard before posting but didn't see just the insulators. I knew from klov responders to always look and Google first but missed the insulators. I wasn't sure what they were called. I was able to buy those and some other stuff from thearcadeboneyard. You saved me $20! Which I turned around and spent on other stuff.

So I did a little bit of poking around and found these "Joystick Contact Insulators" on arcade boneyard for 2.99. They aren't the same color, but they seem to have the same shape.

http://thearcadeboneyard.com/controllers_and_parts/joystick_parts.php (About halfway down the page, 4th column from left on my end)

There's a stick on arcade that looks similar too.

http://www.quarterarcade.com/Game.aspx/10287

Edit: I found a post on another forum that speculates that they may only be for protecting from grounding out and ultimately unnecessary. (http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=57183&title=joystick-leaf-switches-and-washer)
If that's the you might be able to readjust the switch angles and just remove them all together.

OK so the Double Dragon cabinet I am starting to restore has these 8 way leaf joysticks similar to "coin control" or atari logo from what I read but I don't know because very new to arcades. Can someone tell me if the plastic part that is pushed into the leaf that is broken is replaceable?? Or what it's called. 
https://flic.kr/p/yK7mWN

If the pacman board works with a switcher but not with the original cabinet then the caps on pacman are bad. I think twisty wrist has the caps and Bob might, I don't yet.

That's interesting. I didn't know that. Gives me hope. Hmm...

Edit. Update. Rest was fixed by chip being reseated. Slava (Madrit) fixed this for me, twice actually, since I looked over it. Super nice guy to with.

Edge connector did not solve problem. I think I might have had this issue prior to having board repaired so I want to believe it's a cabinet issue. My voltages check out good, fuses are good, and edge connector has been replaced but there is an old KLOV thread where the problem was power transformer and switcher solved. I might go this route. I don't have a chip puller and don't want to damage board with screw driver.

I will try to check E 52 but since I am new to all this I have to figure out how.

Ok Thanks guys. I'll do the bob roberts edge connector replacement kit (been dreading that big time) and if that doesn't work have Madrit check my board over for ROM errors.

Sorry guys, but I got another Pacman problem. My Pacman just constantly resets like a loop when you power on cabinet. Screens rotate from white letters/numbers, color letters, color lines, grid screen, then repeats over and over without ever starting game. If I put it in test/serivce mode by using service switch the same loop happens however instead of the grid screen I get the "Memory ok, 1 coin 1 credit, Pac-man 3, Upright" text for half a second, then other screens flashing in repettive loop like mentioned above.
After talking to Slava he said the service/test screen should be static and not resetting like the game does when trying to boot. So I have a problem causing game to constantly reset before booting and test/service screen to constantly reset.
I have changed fuse blocks.
I have checked voltages off of fuse blocks.
I have not changed edge connector with bob roberts kit (but will).
I am resetting removable chips as recommended by Slava.
Any suggestions on why I get both resets constantly? Does this sound like a power problem even though transformer test good?

No insult hear. You, John, the forum are my help. I just have to trial and error and watch and read since I have no local help. I'm thankful. And Learning so all is good.

Power is fixed. Thanks Ian and Madrit for the help. Stupid new mistaken. I have zero experence with arcades and mulimeters. When testing AC off the transformer I would use black lead of multimeter on any ground I could find and not on one directly beside transformers output for 12vac, and then the one for 7. Same problem for isolation transformer. Unless I tested AC using both top terminals my readings were off. I just didn't know how to test properly.

The fuse blocks feed the transformer. It's worth checking everything again

Thanks again for reply Ian. I've tested more and have more information to offer:
With game plugged in but power switch off I get 120vac intotransformer and iso Transformer. No output on iso trans and 2vac output from transformer to fuse blocks.
With game turned on Iso transformer to monitor only giving off 60 volts. Voltage out of power transformer to game actually drops even lower on the two 12vac.

edit:Marquee light comes on when switched on. No other wires changed or hacked.
Using new power cord from bob Roberts. Using old cord that 120 reading only 60vac.
 
Could this be bad ac line filter? Ac line fuse block was changed and working.
Could this be a dead short? If so would it be off fuse blocks or daisy chain to iso ?

sounds like you wired up the transformer wrong. I would recheck all of your wiring

Thanks for reply Ian. Problem is I didn't wire it, de-wire it, or touch it. I replaced fuse blocks after it's output. And I'm testing on the transformer itself. Which is giving same low readings I am getting past fuse blocks I replaced anyway.
The pacman transformer has wires for 117volts in, which gives 122 reading. O in and E in. Both those read zero. But outputs are too low at its tabs and I didn't solder or de-solder anything on input or output transformer tabs.

Hi everyone, new to forum, long time John's view, and recently 1st time arcade owner/restore project.

My original upright Pacman "was" working. I have been doing the update to fuse blocks and edge connector. Prior to starting this I checked the voltage out of the transformer and was getting both 12V and 7V it was suppose to give. Now, after doing some work on fuse blocks and replacing fuses I am getting the following voltages 3.8 (instead of 12) 2.0 (instead of 12) 1.8 (instead of 5) and 0 (instead of 5). I have 120volts going into transformer. Also these volts are tested at transformers terminals themselves and not at new fuse blocks or solder joints so my work, good or bad, is not yet in the equation. Did my transformer go bad all the sudden? Is there anything I should check prior to AC entering transformer? There is no board connected and monitor was unpluged so is not under load.
Thanks for any help.