Picked up an Ikari Warriors with no sound today. Volume adjustments on the PCB don't seem to do anything. I reseated the edge connector and I'm getting 4.63v at the 5v on the board and 12.9 at the 12v. Unfortunately I forgot to measure the -5 because we're running out for a while so I can check that later if needed. I can't seem to find a good board diagram to see if anything needs to be reseated related to the sound or just checked to see if it's broken or not getting voltage. Any ideas on where to go? Thanks!

I ordered the jrok multi Williams board and I'm going to set it to boot right to joust. I'll probably add a new control panel later this year to make it a full MW conversion but keep the original cabinet.

Like all the issues I seem to find with my games, this happened today when the game had been on for a few hours and I left the room. Came back to find the display totally messed up. No clue if this is a monitor problem or something else...anyone ever see anything like this before? I did move the game yesterday so maybe I knocked something out of adjustment or loosened a connection, but the fact it was fine all day is puzzling. Any clue on where to start? Can't attach a picture here for some reason but I have one here:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=356531

Hi All,

Anyone who recognizes my name has probably seen my thread about my endless battle with my Joust cabinet that I've been fighting with for over a month. I was talking to someone last night who suggested that if I'm going to pay to have the board repaired, I should just put the JROK multi-Williams board in and have it boot directly to Joust, thusly getting my wife's favorite game back, and circumventing the crappy William's board that will likely need work again at some point anyway. My questions I have are as follows - any input is appreciated:

1. Does anyone have experience with this? My understanding is that the board would need a new harness to basically shoehorn into the cabinet, and maybe an additional one for the control panel. Is this something someone with amateur repair skills (at best) do without ruining the entire game? It seems too simple to be true?

2. If I did (and forgive my ignorance here), with the Joust controls only moving left and right, would I be able to setup the board once installed?

3. If I'm going this far, does it make more sense to just put in a new control panel (it looks like arcade shop sells one) and just go the whole way? How much more difficult is this? The only Williams game besides Joust I'm really into is Robotron, so just having the board boot to Joust isn't a dealbreaker in my eyes, especially if it gets me a solid, worry-free board.

To summarize: It this possible and would I be in over my head?

Thanks all!

Hi All! Apologies for the delay, we've been out of town for a bit on a vacation for our wedding anniversary...finally back home in the basement

As a quick update, the "second" issue I let you know about was because I didn't have the ribbon cable between the interface board and the PCB connected all the way (get it together, Grant...), so I am back to the "original" issue:

When turned on, the initial rug pattern just repeats, never hitting the "all systems go" screen:

http://youtu.be/4jBdBKyFDi4

The LCD indicator was flashing 1,3,1, which looks (per the manual) to be a RAM error in bank 3, with chip 1. I replaced the chip today with a new one, and still seem to have the same issue/error on the LCD.

I reflowed the solder on the pcb header pins and swapped a few ram chips with no changes. The chips seem to be getting the correct voltages so some may be bad? I also checked the continuity between all header pin solder and the pins and those look good...also getting correct voltages in the connectors themselves. I'm honestly not sure what else to check that I haven't.

Wanted to check in before I went further...

We pulled the pcb yesterday and soldered the header pins, and I'm not sure if I made things worse or better, ha! The lcd error code is gone (but not displaying anything now), but now instead of the sweeping rug patter a static one (i can't seem to add an attachment but can e-mail if it would held) displays. If we move around the plastic connecter closest to the reset button on the board, the pattern will change but not clear up.

I wanted to see if maybe I messed something up before pulling the rest of the boards, but the solder job looks clean. We may resolder the pins on that connection that gets the reaction when moved just to double check before moving on to the others. I'm going to try and clean the pins off today too just in case there is some corrosion or dirt.

I remeasured the voltages on the RAM chips and I'm getting .27 on pin 1 (should be -5???), 13.20 on pin 8 and 5.30 on pin 9. This is leading me to think the -5 from the power supply is attached to the top left connector, and we either (1) didn't get the solder right) or (2) theres an issue with the switching power supply. Do either of these sound plausible?? I measured the -5v at the PCB plastic connector and I get a -5.32 there...

Anyone have any thoughts on this...it looks like I have the right voltage (maybe a bit high?) going to the connector, but the .27 hitting the RAM pin is throwing me. My first guess was maybe I didn't make a great connection when I reflowed the solder on that pin, but now I'm a bit nervous I messed something worse up - any experiences or thoughts on what to try next. Reflowing the solder again is my first step this week. If that doesn't help I feel like I'm back where I started.[/img][/img][/img][/img]

Just forget to put the negative sign there ...posting from the iPad! I'm going to try to reflow the solder on the pins this weekend and will report back...thanks for all the imput so far!

Someone on klov recommended rebuilding or switching to a "switcher" power supply...

Pretty slow, some serious family issues these past few days but I'm back to it. I'm still getting the 1 3 1 error after changing what should have been the bad ram chip, I'm wondering if there could be another or a rom or ribbon cable issue. I'm pretty inexperienced in repair so I'm having a tough time with it...any suggestions are appreciated!

Thanks! PM sent! Not really sure where to head next on this one...

Are they difficult to install? I can't picture the board (at work but till check tonight) but I feel like it was "fused " to the board with the roms...

Is there a good way to check and or replace these?

Thanks...I'm assuming this is the chips on the PCB that look soldered already. Would I need to hit anything on the soundboard with all the ROMs or the other (I think I/O?) board?

I haven't replaced any...is that fairly simple to do? I'm still pretty new to the repair process. I'm wondering if having someone look at who knows more about what they're doing would be safer. How "deep" would I be going ?

Sorry...can you explain what you mean in "new guy" terms?