Thanks for the clarification, Ian. I've been wondering about that for a while and hadn't been able to find an answer in such clear terms as I am really new to this stuff. I ended up ordering the cga to vga upscaler to try my luck with that and possibly a scan line generator in the future. It hasn't arrived yet, but my big concern after doing all of this is input lag or how smooth animation is on the LCD. Basically right now I am playing with a 412 in one and it plays ok but can get a subtle choppiness despite almost no input lag and a really clear picture with no weird artifacts I've seen on other LCDs. Perhaps I can use an old computer monitor crt some day down the road.

Hey guys.

So I'm trying out a 19" vision pro LCD in a Nintendo cabinet that is using an original DK 2 board pcb, a mike's arcade Nintendo to jamma adapter (with built in video inverter and audio amp). The vision pro has a 10 pin CGA input on it, and I ran the R,G,B, ground, and composite sync from the jamma harness to the correct pins according to the manual and I am getting "no signal" from the monitor when I power up the game. I do hear the initial DK boot sound on power up. Any ideas of what could be wrong and how to trouble shoot? Do I need a special 10 pin CGA cable or should using the wires straight off the jamma harness work fine?

Thanks!
Ryan

Perfect. Sounds good. Thanks Ian

Yeah that image I posted is being squished, so that is actually my monitor in the vertical position for DK. So it might just be that cap. Really appreciate your help, Ian. Thank you.

Here is what I get when adjusting the vertical size. So maybe it isn't a vertical collapse problem and that capacitor is enough to cause this? Thanks for your help!

Where do I need to run the wires to? Thanks Ian!

I think one of my caps is installed incorrectly and is going the wrong way due to the board/trace being damaged.

Here is a pic.



Give it to me straight guys. Is she screwed?

If so, anyone want to sell me a working Sanyo 20ez chassis? ;)

I really really don't want to have to go the LCD route with this restore.

What would you recommend me doing at this point? I'm not sure how else to wire the yoke. They aren't supposed to be crossed for any reason are they? Seems like a vertical collapse issue. I will remove the chassis and check the vertical IC solder points.

After watching YouTube videos, I believe my issue might actually be a vertical problem. I didn't realize that the top of a monitor is where the anode is. So if I have the monitor in the vertical position (for DK, etc) and I am getting picture only in a line from top to bottom in THAT particular orientation, then that should be mean the problem is that I am getting no vertical output. Does that sound right?

Thanks Ian. Yeah I checked that and noticed that the four yoke coil wires were completely severed and I looked back at some pictures I took before disassembling the monitor. For some reason, the wires had been twisted together and covered with electrical tape. Since I knew the monitor was working before, I reconnected each of the wires, red to red, blue to blue, etc... I then powered the monitor on and got only a vertical line in the center of the monitor from top to bottom. Are these yoke wires meant to be hooked up in a different way?

Again, thanks so much for taking the time to answer these questions,

Ryan

Hey guys,

So I had a working Sanyo EZ 20 that came in a dk3 that was then converted to a data east game and then to a 3000 in 1. I've been working to try to restore it to a regular DK. Anyway, I followed the steps to re-cap the monitor board and the audio board as well using Ian's cap kit. After plugging everything back in (at least what I believe is everything exactly how it was) and turning it on (through the 100V plug after isolation transformer) all I see is a bright dot in the center of the monitor. I turned it off about 5 seconds after this happened because I assumed if something was wrong I could be damaging the monitor. Is it possible that I screwed up something with the cap kit or is it more likely that I have reconnecting something incorrectly? Anyone heard of this issue before?

Thanks for your patience guys. I am new to this and I'm sure you hear this kind of stuff all the time.

Cheers,
Ryan

Awesome! Thanks very much, Ian!

That sounds good. But I'm not sure how to do that. I'll do more research. I'm sure there are some YouTube tutorials and what not.  And thanks, sounds like you may have helped save me a lot of money!

Hey guys!

Thanks for your feedback. I'm still really confused. Basically, I have a sanyo ez 20 and the original nintendo power supply/isolator which the monitor plugs into, and an original donkey kong pcb. So it sounds like my options are to convert it to a jamma cabinet, which would need a jamma to nintendo adapter (but not one with a video inverter since I am using the original monitor??). Or I can try to find original dk cables that plug directly into the board (which I haven't been able to find anywhere so far.) I think I'm getting lost when it comes to the jamma conversion stuff because I'm confused about the video inversion. Is there a place where I can read about this stuff as I am a total beginner when it comes to this stuff?

Thanks!
Ryan

Hey guys. So I am rebuilding an upright DK cab and I am wondering what wires I'll need for the inside. Does anyone know if buying Mike's arcade complete jamma upright solution kit along with mikes nintento to jamma adapter would be everything I need? It seems like it would be, but the thing I am getting hung up on is that the nintendo to jamma adapter has a video inverter on it. Wouldn't that make it unusable with the sanyo ez20? Sorry if you guys get this type of question a lot!

Here are the mike's arcade links to the products I am referring to.

http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=URJAMMAKITM

http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=NIN2JAMMA

I really appreciate the help. I just capped my monitor with Ian't kit. Thanks Ian!

- Ryan