Finally finished my fall project last night just an hour before the official end of fall (my R-Type II):









My initial search for a R-Type cab (a childhood favorite) started a little over a year ago after seeing this rendition of the cabs in R-Type Dimensions:



My Google searching brought me to this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWmiwwOGCC0

And then I REALLY wanted to find that childhood favorite that I haven't stood at and played in about 25 years. I also had never seen the inner workings of a arcade machine before and to see how my childhood favorite arcade game worked from the inside in that video was really cool.

Soon after I found my R-Type cab and and was reunited with it after not seeing it in person for about 25 years. At the same time I became hooked on that Youtube channel. I learned a lot from the channel on arcade restores and decided to take on my own project late this year which is the R-Type II posted above and below.



I wouldn't have been able to do this restore if it wasn't for the knowledge from the John's Arcade Youtube channel! From Bondo, to laminate. I never did any of that before. I never used a router before or anything. I think I did good for my first restore project, hehe. And thanks for all the restore knowledge and entertaining videos. This is freakin' brown paint! LOL. ;)


It was basically monkey see, monkey do....

Laminate (learned from the Jump Bug restore)....








Bondo work....













Gluing separated T-Molding grooves:



Restoring coin doors...




Basically I learned everything that made this restore happen from watching the John's Arcade Youtube channel so I thought I would at least share my project here and give thanks to where the knowledge was learned to let me pull this off!

Peace.

Speaking of Nintendo cabinets... He traded back the R-Type to his friend who he said wanted to convert it to R-Type II... did he ever do the conversion? I'm in the midst of doing exactly that...

Before:


Currently at around 95% complete with a dead PCB (awaiting possible repair) and a new PCB shipping from Germany (Gawd, love to all friends in Germany, but shipping from your country takes forever!):


^Install new PCB, mod the wooded inserts in the PCB cage to fit the R-Type II board, and install the CPO and it will be pretty much completed! So I'm wondering what happened to the R-Type John had that went back to his friend to be converted to R-Type II? Did it ever get converted? I'll personally have R-Type 1 & 2 side by side. My main R-Type cab is 100% original and in great shape (all original buttons and everything, only 14,000 plays when I got it). It's going to be so kick-ass to have part 2 sitting beside it in an original R-Type cab. I went through great lengths to restore the cabinet and return it back to all original parts (buttons, joystick, coin mechs, another burn free minty monitor, etc.etc...)  Couldn't have done it without John's Arcade videos since I learned EVERYTHING about this restore from watching his vids for the past year...

whatever happened to that nintendo playchoice 10 cabinet you restored and shipped off somewhere.  i was dying to know which game it was gonna play, then i forgot all about it for a few weeks.  did you ever reveal the surprise and i just missed it?  i watch all the videos.  thanks

Ya, talk about leaving us hanging, . I just love Nintendo cabinets and I was wondering too, heh.

And they look good! Very happy with the quality of the materials, the hoodie is better than expected!






Hey, gotta support my favorite Youtube channel, right? ;) Actually I bought them mainly not to support the channel but because I just like them, hehe. ;) And not for nothing, I'm not even sure I want to wear them. They'll surely fade out and get ruined from washing them over and over again, I might just put them with my arcade collection stuff. The reason is, in the past where I've bought shirts from vacations, class trips, or other events, years later I had wished I had kept those shirts in good shape and not ruined them from wear and tear. I dunno, think I'm going to have to wear that hoodie here and there for the winter and then put it away for safe keeping for eternity, hehe.

Peace, out...
Oh and... I seen in a couple of the recent videos John is making a new channel... PLEASE DON'T DEGRADE THE ARCADE GAME CHANNEL OVER HAVING ANOTHER ONE! Thanks. 

Well I think I killed the monitor. You know how curiosity killed the cat? Well something was telling me NOT to touch the B+ adjustment... well I did and the screen became a blurry distorted mess. Put the adjustment POT back to where it was and the screen was still a distorted blurry mess, oh well... it's completely hosed now. I didn't even bother to take a pic of the mess I got the feeling it's over for this monitor - I actually smelled what smelled like freshly melted solder.

Anyway, before I got the brilliant idea to touch the B+ (don't ask what I was thinking) I was looking over the main PCB with a flashlight and noticed this discolored area that looked kinda burnt:



^Is that a normal occurrence? Anyway, if anyone has a good working monitor for sale in the northern NJ area (I'll drive up to 4hrs one way) let me know.... I have this game I've been restoring and it's utterly frustrating to be held up right before it's time to put it all back together with a bad monitor. I'm so frustrated I'm thinking about calling it a wrap on the entire project, cutting my loses, and parting it out.... Anyone want a freshly restored R-Type cabinet, brand new laminate, NOS original R-Type II artwork? (and marquee).

Ok... So I pulled the filter board out of my other cabinet already and no change... so that rules that out... Ahhh...

Ok so if I turn down the brightness and sub brightness all the way with the PCB unplugged a slight halo shows up around the top of the screen but not as bad as the pic I posted above of the R-Type high score screen - it's very slight. Turning up the brightness and sub brightness the halo disappears (possibly just hidden from the normal screen glow but otherwise looks uniform).

Do I really want to dismantle a working game to swap parts? ahhh,... Lemme think about it. Probably will do it, I'll be back in a while...

Ok... I suppose I could also rip out the harness from my other fully working R-Type cab and try it... be back in a while...

Ok so I have some time today to play with the monitor. PCB unplugged, no white washout. PCB plugged in, white washout. Yoke loosened, I can tilt and move the picture around but that's about it - the white washout remains although it tilts with the picture when I move the yoke. My father still says voltage regulator....hmmm. Now what?

Could the actual Nintendo filter board interfere with the signal since it doesn't have the white washout without a PCB plugged in? And yes, tried multiple known working PCBs... Ahhh this is so frustrating!

OT: But is this the same Kamshaft from the Motocross Madness days? (track creator and owner of the now defunct mcmcentral I think the site was)

I'm going to do everything you guys say but I probably wont have time until the weekend since the job site where we're currently working I have almost a 4hr round trip commute right now.

I haven't tried without a PCB plugged in but I've ran three different PCBs so far, but I'll try without. The Yoke adjustment we'll have to elaborate on that some time this week as I have no idea what to do (does the monitor have to be powered off and discharged when you make the adjustment?) I really really really really hope I can fix this monitor because the I think the image other than the problem area is sharper than the Sanyo in my other cabinet.

Tried KLOV, no help. Problem: The top of the monitor has severe white washout (see pic). It doesn't appear to be the screen since I can (somewhat) push it off the screen by adjusting the vertical size, however, a white halo will remain around the top since it's so bright and also the geometry will go more out of whack (both sides at the top bend out). I think both problems are related.

Previous work I've done: Cap Kit from Ian and today just for shits since I had the day off work I reflowed every solder point. I hate the scrap the monitor if it can be salvaged.

Any ideas what could be causing this? My father says voltage regulator, does this make sense?

Make/Model: Sharp XM2001N







Here's a pic of the halo that remains when I stretch the image off the screen:



Also, do these do-hickeys need to be straight up and down:



Please help save this monitor! Also, if anyone in the northern NJ area has a monitor that's plug and play in a Nintendo cab that they can sell me, let know (in case this monitor goes to the landfill)