It's fixed. It was the horozontal adjustment know (or was it vertical??).

Anyway, it was the k4600 not the PCB or my hack wiring job.

[Some pcbs may work fine, while others don't."]

see the thread about the k4600.

I was confused because it worked just fine running Mr. Do!.

But not Jump bug.

Here is what Bob Roberts said: "The screen has horizontal bans of color like a barber pole or maybe almost straightened up, but not quite, so that the picture is slanted. Some pcbs may work fine, while others don't."

Anteater is working.

Power supply issue. It's brand new... but I have too many games plugged into one outlet.

Not sure if you have seen this article from BOB Roberts but maybe it will help a bit.

http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/slanted.html

Holy crap dude! I think this is exactly what's going on with my Jump Bug.

Hey guys,

The other day, I posted a thread about problems with my Jump Bug.

I am re-wiring it and the image on the monitor is flaky and all screwed up...

But while working on it, I noticed my game next to it - ANTEATER - my pride and joy, had junk on the screen.

I turned it off... back on... still junk on the screen. I tried like 3 more times and still junk.

Then, I unplugged my Jump Bug from the wall... and Anteater started working again, right away.

however, after 5 minuites... it stopped working. Back to Junk on the screen.

Does anyone know what the Hell I did? Or what's going on here?

Didn't need one. The pcb came with an edge connector... and then it connected to jamma ( I bought it from Eldorado games and it was something he created).

I hooked it up in my Jamma cabinet and it played.

I removed the whole Jamma harness from that cabinet... hooked up the red/black/orange to the +5. +12 and ground of the switcher... plugged in the connectors to the monitor (both k4600... not k6100) and plugged in the molex for the controls.

And I got weird, wavy, distorted image on the monitor.

Some dude mentioned pin 14... a ground... that I didn't hook up.

I'll try that when I get home.

Hey guys...

I am restoring a Jump bug that was converted to Mr. Do!

Everything was finished, except I didn't have a Jump Bug PCB.

Well, I finally bought one. It came with an edge connector that also connected to a Jamma Harness.

So I had two options.

Re-wire the Cabinet to OG jump bug... or re-wire with a Jamma harness.

I opted for Jamma. It seemed easier.

So I took a jamma harness, wired up the essentials (+5, ground, +12, -5) and re-wired the control panel.

Sent the wires to the monitor.

There were a few connectors that didn't go to anything.

I turned it on and have a super-blurry... and very unstable looking picture on the screen.

I can see the twinkling "stars" of the background, but the main image is severly distorted.

It looks like a sync. issue, only its not scrolling.

Is there something I should have hooked up, but didn't?

I thought it was a monitor/picture image... so I tweaked a bit with the red, green, blue and sync wires. Nothing. Also, the cabinet I stole the jamma harness from had the same monitor. A k6100.

What could I be missing? What needs to be wired in to make a Jamma harness work?

Like I said, there were some connections that I didn't hook up. Seemed like coin door stuff... nothing important.

What should I try next?

No dice.

on the original power supply? Maybe one... can't really tell though.

Hey guys,

I posted something similar on KLOV, but just in case...

I am getting 6.5V and -10.2 at the harness of an old frogger.

The machine is running original power supply...

Does this mean I need to install a switcher?

Has John made a video that could help me here?

Scott

cool. thanks man.

Phetishboy gave me some ideas on KLOV as well.

Just picked up an Out Run Cabaret. I want to install a marquee light (unless it comes with one... in which case you can scold me. I havent checked yet, just assumed it does not)

So I have a light... how do I wire it? Where do I tap into for power?

Scott

I feel like I'm taking crazy pills.... but my screen looks very narrow (width wise). It's like there is another 2 or 3 inches on either side that isn't being used.

Is it supposed to look like that... or is my width off?

I tried adjusting the pot on the sanyo 20ez... the one right next to the width coil... but nothing.

I just gave it a cap kit. Fixed the sound issue and the picture is bright and vibrant.

But alas, the screen is still narrow.

Any thoughts?

Question...

Why did the operators use the old power supplies while installing switching power supplies?

Like the Galaga machine I'm trying to figure out...

The lines run through the old power supply. Why not just completely bypass the old power supply?

Thanks John. You're the best!!!