I don't think most here would support such an endeavor; more emphasis is placed on fixing machines to the way they were in their prime.

What browser do you use?

So, I have a video now. Ian, do you still think it's a PROM issue?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iohpnzafyjj6kbi/PP.webm
This video has 3x 3 second clips. The first has a car pop up in the right lane, the second has a sign on the left pop up, and the third is  a still image showing this weird hairline artifact that I get on the high score screens (moving around the right side of the screen like an eye floater) and the select course screens (all around the screen, static). I also have this weird horizontal instability which hopefully the cap kit will fix.

Thanks Ian.
While I'm talking to you, I'm about to order a couple cap kits from you and was wondering if you do cap kits for the TM-202G in this machine.

Probably should've updated this thread.
Stupid me was looking through the backdoor sheet and saw a warning: DO NOT TURN ON DIP SWITCH 8. Well, I accidentally did that at the advice of a Youtuber, and that particular switch does a debug pause.
So, now it works, but I'm finding this problem which seems to grow worse, and that is that ghost sprites are popping up in the foreground as the game runs. What I mean is that a car will materialize for a second ahead of you then disappear again while you're driving, or a random sign will pop up on the side of the road. My suspicion is VRAM, and I'll try to reseat that when I have some free time. Unless anyone else has suggestions.

My Grandma had an extensive 5200 collection, including Bounty Bob Strikes Back, the elusive sequel to Miner 2049er.
She gave it away years ago. I've wanted one for a while but finding one for the right price is difficult.

I'm more towards New Haven. I probably couldn't attend anyway, as I'm 17 and still stuck at home.
I do know that BoFoSho from KLOV/VAPS lives in upstate New York and likes to do meetups.

I've rewired my power inputs (my fault, I used quick connectors foolishly) and adjusted my power to be between 5.00V and 5.15V on both boards. Still the same issue.
By the way, MOLEX connectors need to become a thing of the past. *shudders*
I am guessing the next course of action is to clean and reseat socketed chips?

Evening.
I have my Pole Position II that I've previously discussed. It was working alright the other day, so I decided to do a sense mod and add several power inputs to it. Now, it won't enter attract mode. On Free Play, it works fine. However, on coin mode, it boots, and then freezes on this screen:

Service mode shows that RAM and ROM is all good. Any advice? Should I try cleaning the pins on all the socketed chips?
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEEIXTmKSLQ

Huh. A lot of guides on the internet are vague, I thought there might've been something unique there.
IIRC Bob Roberts sold replacement harnesses. What should I do for those (if need be), scrounge Mouser for similarly pitched card-edge connectors?
EDIT: I had the wrong link and did not realize that he still had his catalog on the website. I apologize.

That is a very interesting topic. How easy is it to get the tube/chassis into a proper frame?

I haven't quite gotten there yet.  I can't see why it would be any different from the tube standpoint, although the chassis might be an issue.
My Pole Position has what seems to be a perfect screen so I'd be doing this in my WIP MAME Multicade, which has absolutely no mounting hardware yet anyway.

Anyone know who else offers kits to improve the stability of Pole Position and such?

If you have a TV that doesn't support tube swapping, you can often get RGB directly into some point of the board. The most common way is by means of the onscreen display (like menus and input buttons), which are usually dead simple. A chip outputs the video signal as RGB to another chip, and to overlay it on top of the screen, it puts out an "interrupt" signal down another pin. Usually the interrupt is just a voltage, allowing you to hardwire a switch between a permanent voltage source and the interrupt signal (to allow for menus and such) and then you can put your own RGB signal into the TV. Sync is kept by sending a C-sync down the active input. I haven't tried this myself yet, and I don't know how well clamping to a .05V IRE (instead of .0007V) would work yet, but the spec sheet says it shouldn't kill my Trinitron.

As a side note, my Trinitron supports multiple RGB interrupts but (probably) has the second one (and the YUV input) disabled at software level. The service menu setting to fix this is esoteric and dangerous so I'm not fiddling with that any time soon, even though the FUBAR geometry makes this set fairly worthless.

I learned this from this article, written from a guy that I know from another discussion board. http://mikejmoffitt.com/articles/0032-tvrgb.html

Evening all,
My name is Prog, and you might know me from some console modding forums (or as Grizz if you're into Dream Theater). I've been into arcade games for years, mostly from 6th gen compilations. I bought a hollowed out cab at the North Haven auction (I live fairly close to it) and have been working on making a good MAME cab out of it. I also picked up a faulty Pole Position II (conversion) on Craigslist yesterday and am going to make some headway on that.
I registered months ago but had some weird email crap happening. Now it's all resolved.