I just put a 60 in 1 in a super cobra what you need is a test and Service Switch to navigate threw the menu and I am pretty sure a dip switch needs to be flipped to get to the menu been 2 months since I did this. if you have micro switch buttons or any buttons in general hook them up to the right input and just leave them in the back of the cabinet. Once your in the menu to shut off the games you use the Joystick left and right to turn them of and up and down to scroll threw them

The Games you want to shut of to My knowledge will be
Super Cobra
Hustler
Juno First
Xevious
Scramble
Pinball Action
Shao-Lin's Road
Gun Smoke
1943
And I would suggest Congo Bongo because it's Q-bert controls but thats up to you

Thanks for that - I turned those games off along with a couple of others.  I wired up a test switch using an old doorbell button that I had.  It did the job.

Been awhile since I looked at mine but I just wanna say you're gonna be disappointed with the sound emulation for Gyruss in the 60-in-1 board compared to the original.  Most of the other games have decent sounds though.

Yeah, I'm aware the sound won't be the greatest - but it's better than NO sound or NO games

1) The manual says to press TEST switch to go to the next menu page or SERVICE switch to go to the previous page.

I saw this in the manual, but the test switch in my coin door does nothing - it *DID* work on my defective Gyruss board previously.

2) Not sure about this.  You can wire up your cabinet speakers to your jamma connector for sound, right?  The speaker outputs are at pin 10.  The board allows you to adjust volume in the service menu.  If you're talking about a powering an outside amp you might need a separate line from your power supply to it or pins at position 6 on the connector are 12V.

I probably wasn't entirely clear on this - My hope was that the konami/stern to JAMMA adapter would give me all of the functionality I needed, but it doesn't appear to.  The 60-in-1 board's audio (from what I have found) supposedly requires +12v to run.  But I don't even have a wire coming from the +12v line on my power supply, so obviously +12v isn't going anywhere in this cabinet.

Good evening folks,

So, several years ago, I bought a Gyruss cabinet at a garage sale that had a bad PCB.  Shipped it to Ian Kellogg and he determined it was a bootleg and he couldn't fix it.  I haven't been able to find a reasonably priced replacement, so I decided to do a 60-in-1 (since one of the games is Gyruss.)  I don't have a lot of room for arcade cabinets, so this would give me a reasonable facsimile of many good classics as well.

I want to stress that I did NOT hack up my Gyruss cabinet to do this.  I purchased this adapter from Aracadeshop:
http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/375/jamma-to-konami-cab-adapter.htm

So, I can easily restore this to a Gyruss cabinet when & if I can find a replacement Gyruss PCB.

Now on to my questions:

1) Do any of you have experience with the iCade 60-in-1 boards?  I can't really find great info on it and the manual isn't really providing useful info.  I want to go in to the settings and turn off all the games that require more than 1 fire button - basically I want to disable all the games that won't really be playable.  When I flip the dip switch to test mode, none of the buttons on the panel will advance to the other screens.  The manual mentions "sw 3" and "sw4" I believe, but I don't know how to trigger those.  Anyone with experience on this board have any hints?

2) From what I have found, it seems that the iCade needs +12v to power its audio amp.  It doesn't appear to be getting that.  Correct me if I'm wrong here, but Gyruss doesn't appear to use the +12v (I have the power supply wired as it was originally wired and the +12v line doesn't even have anything hooked up.)  Is there some other way to get +12v to the 60-in-1 in order to get sound thru my built-in Gyruss speakers?  If not, I have a set of computer speakers that I can plug in to the "headphone" jack on the 60-in-1 and put them in the cabinet on either side of the monitor - but I'd really prefer to use the built-in stuff. 

Thanks for any help or hints.  If I need to provide pictures or more information to make my questions clearer, please let me know.

I get mine from Twisted Quarter as well. I prefer the keyless coin door locks for my home stuff.  Specifically, these are the ones I have ordered:  http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=155_352&products_id=1710&zenid=ckk3gihra353qs8m6jr2kijgm2

Hey everyone

For anyone who is interested, I wanted to post some progress pics for my Gyruss restore.  I've been taking my time working on it little by little since I picked it up last October/November.  Recently I spent quite a bit of time in the garage getting things done, though.

I replaced the control panel overlay, installed new buttons, and cleaned & lubed the monroe stick (back toward the end of April): http://i.imgur.com/usWOvJW.jpg

On the weekend of May 23rd, I finished repairing a 14" section of particle board that was missing under the t-molding (using Bondo), and I cut a new slot in the repaired section using a router that I borrowed from a friend.  I also finished sanding some areas (like where I filled in the holes from a previously installed security bar across the coin door.)  I finished up painting the front (including the areas repaired with Bondo) and installed the new t-molding.  I sanded and painted the coin door using a RustOleum "hammer finish" paint & primer in one.  I re-assembled the coin door last night and put it back in the game.  Snapped a quick picture this morning on my way out the door: http://i.imgur.com/EqLU9kh.jpg

The game is mostly put back together.  Now all I need is a functional PCB - mine is currently out for repair with a capable guy

If anyone is interested in seeing the whole album (so you can see what it started off looking like), here it is: http://imgur.com/a/2uNmw  I haven't done anything to the side art - I kind of like the battle scars.

thanks much!

Made some progress on my Gyruss today - finally!

I applied the new control panel overlay - that was a little nerve-wracking, but I got it done.  Thanks to John for his Gyruss videos - the CPO one was particularly helpful.  Got the new buttons installed and got my re-built joystick hooked back up.  Looks pretty good if I do say so myself...

http://i.imgur.com/usWOvJW.jpg

I'm gettin' there!

Hi everyone,

I recently finished up some bondo work on my Gyruss cabinet.  Part of the work was re-building a section of the side panel where the t-molding goes.  I've got it all sanded and ready to go now with the exception of a t-molding groove.  A buddy of mine has a router he can lend me, but he does not have a t-molding bit for it.

Is there a particular t-molding bit I'll need?  Are there different types of t-molding bits?  Can anyone recommend one that'll work for me?

thanks!

Hey everyone,

I went to Zapcon this past weekend in Mesa, AZ - was a great event.  I only saw one other dude wearing a John's Arcade T-shirt, though.

I didn't take a lot of pics.  However, they had a dedicated Space Paranoids cabinet - pics here: https://plus.google.com/+KenKuhns/posts/D2NZjUJZ7b6 

It is obviously a converted Battlezone, but they did a fantastic job on the artwork, sideart, screen bezel, etc. 

N/m I got it!  I found a decent exploded view in the Gyruss manual: http://www.gamesdbase.com/Media/SYSTEM/Arcade//Manual/formated/Gyruss_-_1983_-_Konami.pdf

Hey everyone,

A while back, I disassembled my gyruss control panel to clean, sand, re-paint, and apply a new CPO.  I'm in the process of re-assembling - I just painted the metal control panel, I have the replacement CPO on hand, and I want to re-assemble the joystick.  However, I apparently didn't take good enough pictures during the disassembly.

Do any of you have a good series of pics showing the joystick and proper locations of the C-clips bearings, spring, etc?  I tried googling, but my google-fu is weak in this matter, apparently.

Thanks!

Just to correct you, the Gyruss to jamma adapter is for plugging a gyruss board into a jamma cabinet and not for putting a 60-1 in a gyruss cab.

But DONT DO THAT to a really good game and a really cool looking cab. If you are interested in getting this up and running quickly maybe we can work a trade out and i can send you a working board for your not working one.

Yeah, i don't want to put a 60-in-one in this cabinet - I'd much rather keep it as pure as possible.

I am HIGHLY interested in that trade you mentioned!  I'm more than happy to make my existing board part of the !  I'd like to get this game up & running by April so I can bring it to ZapCon here in AZ.  Thanks!

Yeah,, they charge a lot because gyruss boards are a whore to replair.
did you check your interconnect cable on the board?  you can swap an EIDE cable in its place .

Eldorado bill for me this month was $559
for stargate boards and battlezone.

I was going to try your suggestion on using an EIDE ribbon cable (I have a ton of them), but the connector isn't as wide as the existing one.  It looks to be the same as a SCSI ribbon cable, though.  I know I used to have some of those sitting around....

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a functioning Gyruss PCB for my cabinet restore.  As you may have seen from other posts, my Gyruss isn't showing any sprites.  If you have a reasonably priced functioning Gyruss PCB, please let me know.

Thanks!

holy piss $170 repair? I am certain you could buy a replacement board for less than half that.

yeah, I haven't even started looking in to it yet.  Glad to hear it might not be horribly expensive.  Heck, when I heard that price, I realized I could buy a Gyruss to Jamma adapter for $35 and a 60-in-1 (which includes Gyruss) for significantly less than that.