John's Arcade Forum - Classic Arcade and Pinball Collecting and Restoring Discussion Forum - RETRO MAME - Nintendo Vs Forum

Here are some links to monitor flow charts.

These are not hosted here. These are simply links to external sites that were found using Google.

GENERIC: http://www.retrovicio.org/ficheros/tutorial/3671/genericMonitorFlowchart.jpg
G07/K4600/K4900/K7000: http://docdro.id/sz1Ix4g
K7000: http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii66/Pietenpol_bucket/Flowchart-WellsGardnerK7000RandyFro.jpg
G07: http://lawnmowerman.rotheblog.com/rgvac/G07_Flowchart.jpg
G07 #2: http://antelopearcade.com/files/Monitor%20Manuals/ELECTROHOME_G07_ARTICLE_AND_FLOWCHARTS_BY_RANDY_FROMM_(U).pdf

Sanyo 20EZ: http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll282/dokert/Monitor%20ID/Sanyo20EZVFlowChart.jpg

Also, check my site at http://www.nintendovs.com for 20EZ and XM1801 official Nintendo Troubleshooting guides (scroll down to bottom)

I noticed at the bottom you show your eprom burner..
would something like this suffice for game roms ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/True-USB-GQ-4X-EPROM-chip-Burner-Programmer-29F400-/260819856441?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cba132c39

I think others have had good things to say about that Willem burner. I have no personal experience with it though.

I have that very burner, it works well. Its nice being able to program my AVR chips as well. Honestly it might not be worth buying one unless you are going to be into fixing boards.

I dunno it be worth it just to try once to fix my own boards.
Honestly , If anybody here in the states can do it (cough cough john) Id pay good cash.
it may just be one stupid rom that needs to be rewritten. 50 bux buys a decent amount of beer and a lot of ernie ball strings.
this is what I get to deal with after spending 100 bux on a board the seller claimed worked.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zmpz4cKSPE

Thanks for those John!! Been looking for them for a while...

Oh nice.  ;D

Thanks for posting this info John!

I love these things!  ;D However, I usually just shot gun a whole repair kit on my monitor.  ;)

Yes, that works most times. But, when you have a VERY specific issue these things really can help guide the way.

Be sure to download them, even if you don't need them now. I know these types of links get taken down often.

Added a good link to a G07 PDF I came across last night and here:

http://antelopearcade.com/files/Monitor%20Manuals/ELECTROHOME_G07_ARTICLE_AND_FLOWCHARTS_BY_RANDY_FROMM_(U).pdf

Anybody have a flow chart on a wells gardner u5000 ?

FYI:  It appears that the K4900 link is broken.

John, thanks for the resources at the top! The only fuse we could find was a tube/filament type fuse in the circuitry on the chassis of the monitor. Are there fuses we are missing? I think a fuse is blown because this all started with a little pop.


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Its still broken

HERE

http://antelopearcade.com/files/Monitor%20Manuals/ELECTROHOME_G07_ARTICLE_AND_FLOWCHARTS_BY_RANDY_FROMM_(U).pdf

and here

http://docdro.id/sz1Ix4g

If you're REALLY interested in starting with the basics, then getting a FANTASTIC understanding of what's going on within these CRTs, sink your teeth into Randy Fromm's 4 part series on CRT Monitors:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsZ5PJB-w2s

Agree! I watched every minute of those videos. I learned a lot!

Any chance that there might be a flow chart for a Wells Gardner 19V1001? I'm having fits trying to get a Space Invaders back up and going. The video on the screen slowly fades away until you can't see the picture. I've ordered a cap kit but I have a hunch that there's another problem.

I looked. Couldn't find one. Check B+?

No not yet. I have the manual for it and schematics. I'll see if I can figure out how to check it. Thanks John.

Had a few minutes to tinker with it today so I looked over the schematics and found two good test points to measure B+ at. B+ was 67.5 volts. The manual say it should be 73 volts. However the game ran for over 1 1/2 hours today without a glitch. I "could" adjust the B+ but I don't want to until I can measure it while the monitor is acting up, so for the next few days I'm going to turn it on when I get up in the morning and let it run until it acts up or I have to leave for work. If I can't get it to act up then I'm going to pull the board and install the two cap kits I bought for it (main board and power supply section) and touch up ever single solder joint then reinstall it and set B+ to 73 volts and then let this thing run everyday until I'm convinced that it's actually fixed.

Thanks for the suggestion John, it at least got me to start looking into this. I'll keep you posted.

So I replaced the caps on the deflection board, and the large cap can on the chassis (4 caps in the large can). The monitor ran for about 5 to 10 minutes with a scrambled rolling image. I started to do the set up to adjust all the pots on the deflection board, first up was the B+. Measured at 66 volts, it's supposed to be 73. I tweaked the voltage pot the smallest amount I could and one of the replacements for the can capacitor (it was either cap B or cap C) exploded. I took it back apart and found that the top of the cap was blown open and one of the resistors under the chassis was black in color. Yep I did it good. So here's the question. I really don't want to give up on my Space Invaders game and this has obviously gone beyond my ability. Does anyone know someone who knows how to work on a WG 19v1001 black and white monitor and who would be willing to tackle my mistake? So far the few arcade repair shops near me have said that it's too old and they no longer work on them. Seriously I need help.