John's Arcade Forum - Classic Arcade and Pinball Collecting and Restoring Discussion Forum - RETRO MAME - Nintendo Vs Forum

I have a chance to get a Gyruss that has the typical "Gyruss" name burned into the monitor. The whole game is original from what I can see but the screen burn is kinda bad.

Having a true CRT is very important to me and I can't afford to replace it I don't think. Can I live with it you think? I know that's a question for me to answer but just looking for a bit of guidance.

I'd be fine passing it up because I'm going to get a 60 in 1 but I've heard the sound is terrible in that particular game so having the original may be the only way to go.

get it, get a gyruss, dont even worry about the burn in, all of them have it. just get a gyruss!!!! its one of the best shooting games there is and you won't regret it, just don't turn it into a 60-1 please, for me.

All the ones I have seen have that burn. How's the cabinet?

CRTs aren't as hard or rare as you might think. If anything, get the Gyruss then start searching for a junk game on Craig's List that you can steal the monitor from.

Ian don't worry, if I get it I won't hack it up. I was going to use the Jamma adapter on the Ms Pacman so I can hook it up using all the original equipment.

John the cab is okay, kinda like yours, marks along the side etc. The burn is pretty bad though so going to see if we can agree on a price. If there's going to be a monitor change in the future I want to keep the cost low.

I have 2 monitors with burns - once you're in a game and concentrating it's not an issue.

If it was me, I'd get the game, live with it until the time is right to replace it - but be sure to secure the game.

I dont think the burn is going to be as bad as you think. Gyruss is almost completely black when you are in game and you will most certainly not notice it when you are in the groove.

Well looks like we've struck a deal. Should be picking it up Friday night. I'll get some pictures up asap. In that awkward stage now where we've agreed on a price and am hoping it doesn't get scooped out from under me.

most people are good and honorable, but yeah sometimes it happens. All I can say is don't miss your agreed upon time.  But congratulations, you got a great game, one i have been unable to secure myself.

Now one thing I just wanna check is to make sure that it has an original board vs a bootleg. After watching Johns vids it seems the fastest way to tell is that the bootleg has the pcb tracers on the top (visible) while the stock Konami board has them on the bottom, not visible. Does the bootleg board set fit in the stock board rack? Any way to tell from what's projected on the screen?

you won't be able to tell from the monitor usually. Know the size of the board and the layout of the eproms. Know which eproms are used for that game. Konami used a lot of custom chips which when bootlegged would cause the size of the PCB to increase.

You are probably not going to be able to tell if it is a bootleg at all and it is best assumed it will be one.

That bootleg board I had in my game actually played 1,000% (afaict). It's funny how spot-on it really was.

Well guys I got it! The seller turned out to be a totally awesome guy too. I just love meeting great people because of this hobby. I'm hoping to stay in touch with him from now on.

For the exception of an upgraded power supply the game appears to be 100% original. The whole coin door is in tact, volume buttons and all. Even has a toggle switch for what I don't know but I like switches and dodads so that's cool.

The boards say Konami on them and appear to match nicely with what I saw on the video. The monitor screen burn isn't visible at all when playing. Very visible otherwise but who cares. The screen looks like it could benefit from a cap kit at some point but right now it plays great.

The only things it needs is coin door bulbs, a new marquee light tube and good cleaning.

Pics to come... 

Some pics.

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85675826/2014-02-28%2021.06.31s.jpg)

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85675826/2014-02-28%2021.06.22s.jpg)

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85675826/2014-02-28%2021.06.41s.jpg)

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85675826/2014-02-28%2021.07.55s.jpg)

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85675826/2014-02-28%2021.07.42s.jpg)

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85675826/2014-02-28%2021.15.21s.jpg)

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85675826/2014-02-28%2021.15.30s.jpg)

Oh Scooby snacks!
that's a spiffy looking gyruss you scored.

Looks like you got a legit board

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Hey! That looks pretty good. NICE SCORE! Congrats.

So, is the screen burn really that noticeable when you're playing?

Thanks for the confirmation Ian, when I got there and looked at it I thought it was a legit board as well even though it wasn't in the cool board holder thingy.


John I can't notice it all when playing. Only noticeable if the ambient light is up in the room. The image could look a bit more black and I'd like to see a bit more pop in the colors. If I can fix that maybe via a cap kit I'll leave the monitor as original.

I just love this game, not sure why it's not higher on the sought after list.


Oh, any idea what the toggle switch on the coin door is for?

Toggle switch?! Picture? Test switch?

Try adjusting the monitor first. Play with the color knobs on the neck board and the "Screen" (brightness) knob on the fly back. You might be able to dial that thing in and be pretty damn happy. VERY VERY often when I buy a game I get it home and spend a couple of minutes adjusting the monitor. The difference is usually night and day.

John you see the switch just above the counter on the previous page. I'll check the manuals and schematics.

I'll give the game a day or too to settle then try adjusting it. It hasn't been used for many many years I'm guessing.

Hmm... I don't remember seeing that one on my game. I wonder if it's a credit switch someone wired in?

I thought that as well but it's in the parts diagram in the manual. It is 1 side momentary and the other side is lock position. Strange though cause I can't see in the manual what it's for other than it's supposed to be there.

Edit: Thinking it's the test switch, going to have to play with it.

Congrats on owning a Gyruss.

Thank you, I love it.

I found this thread for that switch. Looks like it's a test switch that Konami never activated??

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/archive/index.php/t-69324.html