John's Arcade Forum - Classic Arcade and Pinball Collecting and Restoring Discussion Forum - RETRO MAME - Nintendo Vs Forum

Can I assume this power supply in my Gyruss is not original? Is this a switching power supply? I see it's made by Shindengen but they make a lot of stuff.

(http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/2015-03-14-gyruss-power.jpg)

It doesn't really matter if its original or not. Its a power supply and gyruss didn't have any kind of special linear supply.

Yeah, you can replace it with any old switching power supply. I replaced mine with the basic HAPP one.

Thanks guys! This is just what I needed to know. John did you replace your speakers?

No, I didn't replace the speakers. I used the stock ones.

 :esq

Gosh John that's beautiful.

Well mine are fucked, torn cones for both. Phet's cheapo speakers seem the most common of replacement from what I've found. Was hoping to find some a little more quality since Gyruss has such an awesome soundtrack.

I'm finally getting back to this Gyruss build. Is this the power supply you're referring to? So many out there...

http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=335_336&products_id=4

yes

Is 115 WATT / 15 AMP a standard switching power supply? If I go looking locally first I'm not entirely sure what specs I absolutely need for a standard arcade game.

Yes that is standard

How am I still not getting any readings from a new power supply? I've got to be doing something wrong. I'm getting 120ac at the filter, but still nothing across the board from the ps, nor does the red light glow!

(http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/2015-04-23-gyruss-ps.jpg)

Just do a sanity check and see if you get voltage out of the filter. It's possible it went bad.  It happens.  If it does you can just remove it for now.  They aren't required.

I'm getting power out of the filter.

Looking at the Gyruss power diagram:

(http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/2015-04-24-gyruss-power-diag.png)

Shouldn't the two ac lines coming out of the filter go into the ps? Or is it going down to isolation transformer (?) and back up to the ps?

the switching power supply should be connected direction to the line filter. the monitor should be connected to the isolation transformer. which will be connected to the filter.

On this Gyruss which looks very original, white/black/green come out of the ac filter and go into a connector.

The connector spits out 7 wires.

4 travel up to other areas (fluorescent, speakers, etc)

3 go down: 1 to ground on power supply, 2 go down to the isolation transformer

from the isolation transformer at least 2 come back up and go to the power supply -- those are showing no power

Does this mean something's dying down at the transformer?

Progress, but only further in the weeds. I had to plug in the marquee connector to get power to the power supply. What, why?

This now gives me 12v and 5v on the power supply (but only 50 on the ac connectors on the power supply -- normal?).

But once I plug the pcb in, 5v on the power supply drops to .3v, and obviously .3v on the pcb.

If i am understanding correctly your power supply is wired to the marquee light. not exactly a bad thing but maybe its wired wrongly. By chance is the power supply wired in series with the marquee light or is it wired in parallel.

If the hot goes to hot and neutral goes to neutral then its probably in parallel. Another way to check is to remove the bulb out of the marquee, does the power supply still work? If it doesn't you need to fix the wiring. I have a hard time believing someone could make that mistake but i have seen dumber things.

The power stays on when the bulb is removed.

Update! Have a new power supply and getting good readings. But now I'm back to where I was, looking for another Gyruss pcb since this one seems a bit out of reach for what I can do for it. It gives garbled audio and picture -- haven't seen the picture but this is per previous owner, more on that in a sec. But, if I turn down one of the two sound pots on the pcb you can isolate one of the channels or layers of music and it sounds fine.

Before I can see an image though I seem to be missing the video cable that runs from the monitor chassis to a wire a couple feet below. Basically it's the cable John unplugs at the 12:30 mark:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jISiTd9syNI&index=2&list=PLF6Omn2cXb7Z8ScA7Z4IV6XMb6nHd8X0N

Does anyone know if this is specific to the Gyruss or a standard arcade rgb cable with standard plugs?

post a picture or video of the board activing up. getting a gyruss board is kind of difficult. especially a legit one. so fixing might be your only option as long as none of the customs went.


the cable is generic RGB input

One just came out of the woodwork this morning, fingers crossed on that.

In the meantime, I'm not finding an RGB cable easily, any suggestions?

its most likely just a 0.1" IDC header.  i am pretty amazed that yours is missing since its kind of attached to the rest of the harness usually.

Since the previous owner probably used several of the old parts, I think this just went unnoticed. All of the rest of the harness seems intact. I found someone else's photo on KLOV which has the empty cable just like mine:

(http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/2015-05-01-gyruss-video.png)

Well I'm pretty sure I know what connector that is. Just need to know what monitor you have. Also, what are your plans for the gurus pcb

Tis a Wells Gardner 4900.

The pcb came through from KLOV, should have it some time next week.

A few connectors and spools of wire, some pins and you can build you own RGB harness.

Very true, I should just do that. I need all of that though, as I'm slowly building up a work space for these projects. What type of crimper makes those pins?

So the connector in the photo a few posts above looks like Molex.

But the other end appears to be some other type of connector, which goes into the monitor chassis.

(http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/2015-05-01-gyruss-video-chassis.jpg)

(http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/2015-05-01-gyruss-video-chassis-pins.jpg)

Molex Micro? Ooh, JST?!

The 3-wire connector with 2 wires in it (black/white) is your isolated AC voltage coming into the monitor.

The 6-wire connector with 4 wires in it is for video (R-red, G-Green, B-Blue, and W-White for Sync).

Thanks! Assumed so but good to know. It's the connectors themselves I'm unsure of. Twisted Quarter has one for the video I'm going to grab since I'm getting some other things too (http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=743), but I'll need another for the 3 pin, and could make one but not sure what connector it is.

be sure to check out the real bob roberts site: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/parts.html

do a search on that page for "replacement video" and click on the links to see which connector matches up with yours! :)

Wasn't sure Bob was still shipping, or shipping very timely, so I hadn't tried his site. His listing "Replacement Video/Sync Harness $6.00" sure looks like it would work...

He/his site is most definitely in full-time operations. His staff is diligently packing and shipping out orders as fast as they can handle! :)

That's excellent news, I'll keep that in mind. Regarding this video cable though I already started down the path with Twisted Quarter, who emailed me last night, so I ordered the cable from him.

On to the next issue, now that video is out of the way. This is what I get from the original Gyruss board I still own:

(http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/gyruss/2015-05-16-gyruss-screen1.jpg)
(http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/gyruss/2015-05-16-gyruss-screen2.jpg)

And video:

http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/gyruss/2015-05-16-gyruss-video1.mov (http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/gyruss/2015-05-16-gyruss-video1.mov)
http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/gyruss/2015-05-16-gyruss-video2.mov (http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/gyruss/2015-05-16-gyruss-video2.mov)

Reseating roms, pushing on chips, flexing the board a little, checking the ribbon connector -- nothing really seems to affect it. But on occasion I have heard one of the audio channels play perfectly fine, though typically they're both as scrambled as the video. Spot checking a few chips seems to show 4.8v.

One thing of note: these roms get very hot, especially the two at the bottom, which get too hot to touch:

(http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/gyruss/2015-05-16-gyruss-hot.jpg)

Eprom shouldn't get hot. Might be worth a check through the eprom burner

Moving on for now until I can find another pcb. I know.

Hey, anyone have any thoughts on why someone would've done this to the marquee light?

(http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/gyruss/2015-06-07-light.jpg)

(full res http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/gyruss/2015-06-07-light.jpg (http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/gyruss/2015-06-07-light.jpg))

Looks to be three places where someone rewired the thing, and just left twisted wire covered in electrical tape. I'm going to toss on quick connects, but wanted to make sure this doesn't look like trouble.

Gyruss seems to need the marquee light plugged in for the power to get back down eventually to the pcb. Maybe someone rewired part of it to allow the game to be powered on whether a bulb is in? I've no clue.

Just go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy an 18 inch light fixture. They are cheap and work perfectly. I think I remember John saying he buys them at Walmart.

I bought one, but it's so junky that I just fixed up the original. I'm just curious why someone would make all those cuts.

On my new original Gyruss PCB, which I've installed Matt's high score save kit, the attract sound WILL NOT TURN OFF. SW2 8 is OFF, any ideas what gives?

Measure it with your multimeter. dip switches fail all the time.

Yeah I wondered if it's just a bad switch. Oh boy, ok.

How can I know which type of switch to replace it with?

It's a standard 8 switch dip.

Everything else on that dip seems to work but switch 8. I think I'll just leave it and turn down the volume. : p

The restore itself is finally complete -- this included painting the front, back and top of the cab, coin door, full control panel restore, new blackout bezel (thanks Carl), high score save kit, and general gut tweaks. I left the original side art and bezel art alone.

I've yet to find a top marquee bracket or Centuri coin door (that isn't $200), and swapping out the speakers would be nice but haven't found a suitable replacement yet. Later on I would like to get back to trying to fix the PCB it came, but need a rom burner and general test rig.

Thanks for everyone's help on this! It's now cozy'd up to the wall in my workshop and plays great.

(http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/gyruss/2015-07-06-paint.jpg)

(http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/gyruss/2015-07-16-finished-front1.jpg)

(http://jessiejohnson.net/arcade/gyruss/2015-07-16-finished-front2.jpg)

NICE! I have a Gyruss myself, and it needs to be restored badly. I have done a few small things like painting the coin door, but I have a ton of things to do with it.
Great game, you'll enjoy it.

That looks GREAT! NICE WORK!

Thanks, yeah it's a fun game to return to repeatedly. And thanks John for your videos, your Gyruss series was my template and a huge help.