John's Arcade Forum - Classic Arcade and Pinball Collecting and Restoring Discussion Forum - RETRO MAME - Nintendo Vs Forum

Just landed this Wide-Body Mario Bros cabinet last night.  The guy didn't know what was wrong, but said maybe the transformer?

So, put the meter on the output on the transformer and was getting 103.7/8 Volts (I Guess that was good)

I guess it is the power supply??? Here is a photo.
The small transformer on the far right looks good, but then the power supply is the box to the left?  That thing is huge!!!

Also, I saw in the PCB cage the board has two dbl-A batteries on it.  Should I replace those?  Is that for keeping high scores?

Pic:
(http://i.imgur.com/RWBcgaJ.jpg)

As always, thanks for any and all help.
MK

The batteries are there for high score saving.  I would remove them and consider adding in a 'remote battery holder'.  Look for johns videos on how to do that.

Edit. I talked out of my ass.

As far as the power supply goes.  It's possible the supply is dead.  Does the monitor and marquee power on?

The batteries are for saving bookkeeping data for arcade ops, not saving high scores.  If the batteries saved high scores then high score save kits wouldn't be needed for Mario Bros.

Thanks for correcting that. Then there is no need to have the batteries then.

Okay, check on the batteries <- I wanted to remove them anyway...didn't need any more corrosion popping up!!!

The Monitor and Marque do not power up at all.

I found this: http://arcadeshop.com/nin-ps/nin-ps.htm (http://arcadeshop.com/nin-ps/nin-ps.htm)

I already have a HAPP Power supply...would this work?  I'd have a lot more room in my cabinet!!!

Thanks guys.
MK

Ian -

If the Marquee and Monitor don't power up or sound like they powered up....Do you think it could be that transformer?

MK

Stick the multi meter probes into the plug sockets on the brick and make sure you are getting 100Vac (not 120vac) when you turn the cab on. That would let you know if the transformer is working. If the transformer is working plug in the monitor/marquee into the sockets and make sure the power supply is connected (it doesn't use a wall outlet).

Once the transformer is verified working, try to check the voltages on the pins of the power supply. Its very likely the power supply is dead, they are reliable but they do sometimes fail. If that is the case then we can talk about replacing it or hacking in a new one. Fixing a power supply is pretty over the head of most people.

Ian,

Just want to verify a few things you mentioned.

The Isolation Transformer has two yellow wires going to the dual outlet (Marquee/Monitor)

The Isolation Transformer has an additional two yellow wire running into the Power Supply.  (I tested that plug and was getting 103.7VAC)

Can the Marquee and Monitor have power just from the Isolation Transformer? or does it get power from the actual power supply?

I will have to find the pins on the power supply....I think I downloaded the Mario Bros Manual yesterday.  I'll check.

Thanks,
MK

The monitor and marquee get their power directly from the transformer, I believe its a separate tap so you will have to check it. but at least you know the power supply is getting power from the transformer. the manual should have the pinout for the supply.

Yeah, you don't need the batteries on the PCB. Throw them out.

Don't buy any parts yet until we are convinced your power supply is bad.

Check voltages going into the power supply and going out. It's a little tricky on those Nintendo power supplies to test. You need to test at the board or on the FCC adapter the thing.

Thank John and Ian.

I will check voltages tonight and get back to you.....Also, will remove those batteries.

MK

Okay, try follow me here...

So, I thought, Humm...I will check all the fuses and test for continuity.  All 4 fuses checked out except for the .3A on the monitor.  It showed no continuity.  I wonder if that is it?

Voltage Checks at the Pins where the connectors connect to the power supply.  Thanks Lauren for writing these down for me.  My 10yr old daughter who can't wait to play Mario Bros.

9-Pin connector
Color      Spec    Actual Reading
Blue       +5       +5.22
Purple    +5       +5.22
Yellow    +12      +12
Green    +12      +12
Gray      -5.13     -5
White     +24      +23.58
Brown Ground
Red Ground
Orange Ground

10-Pin Connector
Color     Spec     Actual Reading
Brown    -5         -5.14
Red        -5         -5.13
Orange   -5         -5.14
Yellow    -5         -5.14
Green Ground
Blue Ground
Purple Ground
Gray Ground
White      +5        +5.22
Black       +5        +5.22

So, Should I continue on and check voltages at the FCC Connector? or Replace the .3A 100V fuse in the monitor first?

Thanks Guys!
MK

It sounds like your power supply is working just fine, but having that .3A fuse blown means your monitor needs fixing.

Try replacing the fuse and see what happens.

Does the game play blind at all?

 If it does turn out to be a power supply issue I have a spare working one. If you need it we can work something out:)

I will try to find the right fuse.

When I plug it in...it does NOT play blind at all.  No sounds, No Marquee light (Bulb is probably out or starter).  I know its that weird 10W bulb and 100V, not 120V.

I'll keep you posted.
Thanks,
MK

John -

Do you know a place that might carry a .3A fuse (Midget)?

I've checked Autozone/Lowes/Radio Shack/Online at Twisted Quarter and Mikes Arcade.

Twisted Quarter and Mikes have the .3A fuse, but at 250V only.  I think Mario Bros needs a 100V .3A fuse?

Thanks,
MK

Higher voltage is fine for fuses. Size and current is critical though. Also have you checked to see if there is an extra fuse in the monitor?  Sometimes there are spares taped to the frame.

I will check for a fuse too.

Cool, I will just run by RS and pickup a 250v .3A fuse.  Radio Shack did have the .3A 250V's in stock.

Thanks! Ian.
MK

The .3A fuse blew immediately...so I assume there is something bad with the monitor.

Where to go from here?  Any suggestions?

Thanks,
MK

Check for shorts on the big transistors. (Hot and Q901)

Most likely you need to replace IC601 VREG LA5112N

@Ian -

Woah! That's beyond my comfort zone there.....

Hummm... What to do ....>What to do???

I'll need to think about this.
MK

Sorry man, but that's what you asked for when you bought dead games.

Help me understand what is happening.

You said before the cabinet has no power is that true?

Where is this fuse that is blowing? On the monitor?

Why is the game not playing blind if you have power?

Did you check the troubleshooting guide for the 20EZ I have at nintendovs.com (scroll down)

Could be the HOT or the flyback if the monitor is blowing a fuse. I'd shotgun that thing with new caps, hot, and flyback

Yeah im going to go back on what i said, its probably just a blown hot or the flyback like john said. But Start with the HOT

Okay....sorry I was tearing Tempest and Mario Bros apart and cleaning them up and removing the monitors.

There is good news, minimal burn-in on both monitors.  Once the tinted glass is back, it may be impossible to see it.  So, that's a relief.  After cleaning them up, both are actually in really good shape.  No water damage or marks, wires and transformers cleaned up really nice.  Everything is shiny now, except no video.  Fixed the tempest marquee with replacing lamp and starter, looks nearly Brand New!!! and after removing the monitor, I powered it up and got a red light on the PCB, Marquee lights and the player 1 and 2 buttons lit up.  So, I'm feeling really confident that only the monitor needs help.

Onto answering John's questions:
1) The power supply is working, getting good readings on the pins of the power supply.  I didn't test at the FCC card where the connector is.  I can do that if you think it's necessary.  Also, removed the two AA batteries on the PCB.  They were not leaking, thank God.

2) The fuse is on the monitor.  It is the midget fuse .3A or 300mA fuse.  I used a .315a 250v (all they had) fuse from radio shack and it blew as soon as I applied power.

3) I'm not quite sure what to expect when its playing blind?  Can I check something?  Should you here the coin-up sounds, player 1 sounds and then the game?  FYI - I have the monitor removed from the cabinet now.

4) I'll run through the troubleshooting guide you have listed below.

5) I watched your video today about testing transistors on your Caberet Tempest.  Very good job on the instructions/video BTW.

I'll give another update after going thru the troubleshooting guide.

Thanks,
MK

Just wanted to mention.....

Out of all my cabinet machines, I respect the Nintendo build quality.  It's very well put together, plywood, blocking everywhere on the inside, easy to remove CP, Monitor, Organized wiring, simple design, easy to work on.  There is a difference!!!

Just my .02
MK

Ian -

Can you tell me which part is the HOT? (Horizontal Transformer?) and where Q901 is?  I search the part and tried to find it on the schematic.  Just not real knowledgeable on reading schematics...trying to do my best and learning here at the same time.

Thanks,
MK

Thanks Retro...I'll let you know.

@ John....Duh, the bulb is missing from the marquee...so it might be working.

John - You also mentioned throwing a new Flyback and Cap Kit...I see Bob Roberts has that kit (deluxe) for $37.

What type of light bulb fits in these Mario Cabs?  It's not the standard 18" bulb.

Thanks,
MK

Finally got around to checking the HOT on this monitor.  Got brave and discharged the monitor first....went smoothly.

The HOT is showing 0.000001 so I'm assuming its bad.

Will order and replace it.  I will let you guys know the outcome.

Thanks,
MK

Did you remove the hot before testing it? If you didn't you need to go back, remove it and retest.

Yes!

It's broken.. that's whats wrong lol.

Funny!

Hey Vertex and John,

Finally got a new HOT on this Sanyo.

Picture comes up, but scrambled....color looks good, coins up, sound works great.

I can't get the screen to unscramble and the monitor goes off after about 30secs of power.

So, I checked the B+ and I'm hitting 127vDC.....I know it suppose to be 108vDC.

Tried adjusting the B POT....and it goes up to 137vDC....but when I turn it the opposite way I can only bring it down to about 126vDC.

There was some white glue...but it flaked away.

Is the B-POT bad?  Can it be replaced?  Is there something else I can check?

Thanks,
MK

Okay....

Looks like Q901 needs to be replaced.

Where is that?  Is it another Transistor?

Thanks,
Mitch

Found it....right next to the B+ pot.

Does anyone know the part # or item # for this transistor? It's got a screw hole in the top and 3-legs.  Guessing BCE.


Thanks,
Mitch

I aint gonna lie, im not that good with ez20's
Never had one flake out on me so ive never had to trouble shoot one.

2SD1090,  2SD931, or 2SC3153

Okay Ian - so any of those would work?

I'm gonna CAP kit it too while I have it all apart.

Already CAPPED the audio board....not bad...just took some time.

Thanks
MK

Good News -

Put all my Caps in, read the b+ and adjusted to 108vdc.

Adjusted H Hold...and....

BINGO!!! A great stable image of Mario Bros.  Sound works great too.


Played it for a couple hours and was rock solid.

Now, just need a new CPO and Sideart.  Also, the plastic t-mold has turned very brittle.
Anyone know of a good place online to pick all this up?

Thanks for everyone's help.  I greatly appreciate everyone here helping me out.
MK

is there really 4 fuses, i know there one at the switch, one in the power supply and one on the monitor but where is number 4?

mine has been dead for 3 months now :p

edit: i have power at the monitor and marquee but no power to the pcb.