John's Arcade Forum - Classic Arcade and Pinball Collecting and Restoring Discussion Forum - RETRO MAME - Nintendo Vs Forum

im going to look at  DK Jr. tonight. Seller said that only change do to the game is power supply was changed to a switching power supply. I could be wrong which is why Im asking on here. Are there any issues with the change in the power supply or will I want to get an orginal power supply back in there?

It should work fine in theory. I know others have done it. The only thing the switching power supply can't supply is the voltages for the coin counter which is no big deal. Personally, I use the original power supplies as they are pretty good and reliable.

How hard is it to find the orginal power supplies? Can the old ones be rebuilt like the MCRs?

You won't be finding original Nintendo power supplies that much online, because they are so reliable and on one wants to sell them. Although, occasionally there are Nintendo power supplies up on eBay or KLOV like this one -- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nintendo-DONKEY-KONG-Arcade-Video-Game-Power-Supply-Tested-Working-100-/111324285613?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19eb71caad

You can rebuild this power supply if you would like. Although, you will have to purchase the capacitors on your own, as no one sells them in a kit.
List of Caps for Nintendo PS on Klov -- http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=187033

i actually have most of those caps already. I could easily order the rest and start kitting them. Maybe i'll tear a PSU apart and see if there is anything else worth replacing.

That would be sweet if you could start selling cap kits for it!

You can rebuild the original Nintendo power supply, which by the way is a switching power supply. I rebuilt one and it works great.

Unless you are a purist you can use a regular switcher in there, just leave the original in there too for the next guy.

Went and looked at the machine. There is no orginal power sippy it's long gone. I don't know much about the sanyo monitors so maybe someone can clearify. The tube said sharp on it. And the owner could not verify if it was orginal and did not have enough knowledge to tell me if nintendo monitors came with sharp tubes. It didn't make sense to me to here a sharp tube and sanyo chassis. But I'm a complete noob so I passed on the purchase until I could verify things. It didn't help that all the rgb wires were all spliced and hacked up. Will attempt to post pix.

(http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q142/rida142/arcades/9151EA05-B342-4063-B74F-BD1C3181B603.jpg) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rida142/media/arcades/9151EA05-B342-4063-B74F-BD1C3181B603.jpg.html)

(http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q142/rida142/arcades/AB4D4B28-E684-4A6C-AF32-4E0131E755BB.jpg) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rida142/media/arcades/AB4D4B28-E684-4A6C-AF32-4E0131E755BB.jpg.html)

(http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q142/rida142/arcades/C32DAC2F-991B-4955-8E33-BC0923BA2DE2.jpg) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rida142/media/arcades/C32DAC2F-991B-4955-8E33-BC0923BA2DE2.jpg.html)

looks like a sanyo 20ez to me. need help with it?

The reason I'm not sure if its a sanyo is the monitor tube says sharp on it. And all the wires are hacked up. My donkey kong says sanyo on it. This monitor says sharp.

Don't worry about the tube. What you care about is the chassis or in other words, the pcb. That is a sanyo monitor through and through.

The Sharp's and Sanyos are pretty much interchangeable and look very similar. The sharps came later and usually have a degaussing button on the back. I think I can see the button. I had those same monitors in my Punch-Out. They are legit and correct. Bob sells the cap kits for the them... Sharp XM-2001. They are very similar to the 20EZs. I think I used the 20EZ cap kits on my Punch-Out Sharp monitors when I did it. But, if you order a cap kit from Bob just order the Sharp one. The Red Tents also use Sharp monitors (XM-1801)

Thanks guys for the input.

Punch out has the sharps as well and my sanyo kit worked just fine.

What would cause one of these to start turning red after the game has been on for a couple hours?

I have a troubleshooting guide on my site (on the VS page) here:

http://www.johnsarcade.com/vs_downloads/monitors/sharp_troubleshooting.pdf.zip

It says what parts in the circuit control red. It's a lot of them. :)

I was thinking about this on my drive home. You probably need to do a cap kit and that might very well fix your problem. As the caps heat up their resistance is going to increase causing the biasing to change and causing the red to be over driven. I doubt its a transistor issue since those really dont change much with age.